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You probably wouldn’t think some of Sydney’s best pizzas are found in a Redfern shopping mall, but here we are. To be fair, it’s not any old mall – it's Wunderlich Lane, the multi-million-dollar newish precinct home to Olympus Dining, Lottie, Bar Julius, Island Radio, Vitelli’s Upstairs, The Eve Hotel and more (plus Coles and Harris Farm too). I’ve visited all those venues, but I was yet to go to Regina La Pizzeria, by pizza chef Matteo Ernandes (formerly Matteo and Da Orazio) and Michela Boncagni, sommelier and co-owner of Sydney’s LuMi Dining. Until the other week. And I’m very glad I now have.
In May, Regina La Pizzeria was awarded three slices in Gambero Rosso – the highest honour a venue can receive in the well-established Italian pizza guide. It was the only Aussie venue to receive the top recognition this year, with other Sydney venues recognised including Lucio’s, Via Napoli and Pompeii. The Redfern restaurant won points for its excellence across ingredient sourcing, service and dough.
Matteo is pretty passionate about pizza dough – he wants it to have the perfect light texture and chew, without leaving you feeling overly full. That love began growing up in his family’s pizzeria on the Sicilian island of Lampedusa, learning from his dad.
At Regina, the team says they specialise in ‘contemporary pizza, redefining tradition with innovative dough techniques.’ Their high-hydration dough is 80 per cent water, which creates a light and airy texture, while pre-ferments and extended cold fermentation add to the overall flavour and structure.
Unlike other pizzerias that focus on one style – Napoletana, Roman or Sicilian, for example – Regina offers multiple styles, creating diverse experiences for guests (and likely a bit more stress in the kitchen).
If it’s your first time, you have to order the ‘Bellucci’ twice-cooked pizza ($34). The dough is baked and fried, resulting in an incredibly light and airy base that’s crisp, fluffy and not at all dense or oily. It’s topped with creamy stracciatella, buttery mortadella and macadamia rocket pesto.
Another standout is the ‘Diavola’ ($29), featuring a super puffy crust with punchy toppings: San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte, basil, spicy salami, roasted capsicum, nduja, parsley and evoo. It’s salty, spicy and delicious. Or try the ‘Versace’ ($36) with fresh king prawns, Pilu's bottarga, confit garlic and chilli oil.
The team is about to launch a scrocchiarella night every Tuesday from June 9, where guests can deep-dive into the traditional Roman-style pizza known for its signature crackling crunch, featuring a paper-thin, low-hydration dough baked for maximum crispness. You can choose any topping to go with this special base.
Alongside pizza, the menu features handmade pasta and other seasonal dishes, plus snacks, sides and dessert, all backed by a thoughtful drinks list by Michela.
Come in and taste the pizza yourself. And if you forgot anything on your last grocery run, you can pick it up after dinner, too.
Address: 2 Baptist Street, Redfern, 2016
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