Bacco Osteria e Espresso
At Bacco Osteria, they’re playing the long game. Classic, three-ingredient Italian fare and ace wine might not be the hot new thing, but importantly it’s what people actually want to eat most nights of the week.
This is the new venue from the masters of understated Italian in Sydney, Andrew Cibej and Scott Williams, who have cast off from the good ships 121 BC, Berta and Vini for a glass-fronted wedge of restaurant along the Angel Place warren in the CBD.
Although their new digs lack some of the romance of a Surry Hills location, convenience is a big factor. It’s just behind the City Recital Hall, so that’s a big thumbs up for a post-concert plate of pasta, and it’s pared-back, functional aesthetic is the right pitch for regular CBD diners who want to be able to drop in for cured meats and wine straight from the office without a change of costume.
Take a shortcut to happiness via the salumi plate. The salami here has that glossy, almost juicy quality to it that shames the pale imitations in your supermarket deli. One is spiked with fennel seeds, another with just a hint of chilli, and if the salty duck breast prosciutto is a bit metallic for your tastes, the soft, nutty capocollo will quickly mollify your palate.
The three-ingredient waltz keeps perfect time with smoked, cured kingfish tacked on fresh apple slices and lightly pickled kohlrabi. The second dance is a rollick of stracciatella – imagine a burrata that has become so overwhelmed with cream it collapses into s