You could say that the Netflix documentary Chef’s Table helped shine a spotlight on n/naka, but in L.A., the Palms restaurant was already on the map—front and center. Chef-owner Niki Nakayama is a protégé of the legendary Morihiro Onodera (who’s currently running the show at Inn Ann), though Nakayama focuses her talent on kaiseki, a classical style of Japanese cooking that dictates a specific progression of textures, temperatures, tastes and seasonal ingredients. À la carte is not an option: n/naka offers either a 13-course modern menu ($225) or a 13-course vegetarian menu ($200), and both can be paired with wine for $95. The menus change daily and seasonally, but there is always something to delight in: a glass filled with sea urchin and lobster in a bath of chilled dashi, maybe, or a seared diver-harvested scallop cuddled next to a warm okra pod. It can take two or three hours to get through a meal here, and a month or two to land a reservation, but it’s well worth it. Nakayama is one of L.A.’s best culinary talents, and scoring a meal at her restaurant is money well spent.