[category]
[title]
I always believed the magic of the Byron area lay outside of town: in the rolling hinterland and storybook villages that punctuate the region. But on a recent trip, I spent three of the most blissful days of my life almost exclusively in the town itself, and I’m willing to argue that Byron Bay still reigns supreme as Australia’s perfect place to holiday.
First up: accommodation. Over the past few years, the hotel scene in Byron itself has majorly upped its game. There’s Raes on Wategos, of course, which has been setting the gold standard for luxury for decades, but the dreamy beachside bolthole is no longer the only option if you’re looking for a five-star stay.
One of just 35 Australian hotels to earn a Michelin Key, Basq House – a designer gem in the centre of town – has been on my bucket list since it opened, and it’s a note-perfect base for a Byron weekender. Aesthetically, it’s beyond beautiful: bespoke pieces of furniture masterfully arranged, illuminated by warm statement lamps and sunlight that floods in through floor-to-ceiling windows. Rooms are spacious without feeling excessive, with dreamlike beds and rain-dance showers wrapped in deep red tiles. And then, of course, there’s *that* pool – a magnesium-spiked masterpiece in the centre of the Moroccan riad-style atrium, with a panel of glass wall that forms a dynamic artwork of submerged, holidaying bodies.
I’m of the belief that books are the best kind of decor, and the team at Basq House seem to agree – with a poolside “library” one of several gorgeous communal spaces, and a tasteful curation of classics (Hemmingway, Shakespeare) beside each bed, Basq House-branded bookmark slipped between the pages. It’s touches like this that remind you that you’re staying in an independent property, the passion project of a team of creatives with an eye for crafting beautiful moments.
With just 32 rooms, the vibe is intimate and communal – a sense that you and your fellow guests are in on a secret. One evening on the rooftop terrace, I got chatting with another guest as the sun dropped behind the hills, and she told me that she’d made the journey from Victoria with the understanding that the fuel crisis might make this her permanent home.
“I thought about cancelling, but then I thought: Byron is probably the best place in the country to be stuck.”
After three days in Byron (minus a brief trip to Bangalow), I have to agree with her.
RELATED READ: These are the best luxury stays in NSW
Along with a big portion of Byron’s Easter influx, our trip was initially for Bluesfest – the jazz and blues festival that’s been a highlight of Byron’s cultural calendar for more than three decades. But even without the festival, our holiday was flawless: a perfect balance of activity and rest, nature immersion and top-tier hospitality. It’s worth noting that our budget was pretty hefty, and while Byron’s glittering ocean and picture-perfect beaches can be experienced for free, the following recommendations come with a “special occasion” caveat.
On our first day, after lunch at beloved Asian-fusion institution Light Years, we went horserising along Belongil Beach with Zephyr Horses. Our journey took us along a winding forest trail, then over the dunes and onto the never-ending stretch of sand. I fell deeply in love with my horse Osco, and my cheeks ached from smiling as we weaved back through the bush after an hour or so on the sand.
We spent that evening in Bangalow, and if you are going to make just one journey outside of town during your next trip to Byron, beeline for this charming little village. Ciao Mate and You Beauty are the standout restaurants here, and both are well worth a visit – the former for a divinely intimate Italian dinner, the latter for a playful, elevated take on Australia’s classic corner pubs.
Our hot air balloon ride with Balloon Aloft the following day was cancelled due to the weather, so instead we spent the morning exploring the coast track on Australia’s easternmost edge, then soaking our bones at Navia Bathhouse (just below the hotel).
Lunch on day two took us to Roca, a new Latin-inspired gem with a shareable fusion menu made for long lunches. Next door, you’ll find Byron’s first pool club Roca Cabana, and that’s where we spent the rest of the afternoon – dipping in and out of the pool and reading under straw umbrellas with coconutty cocktails. At least five times throughout the day, we found ourselves smiling into the sun and agreeing that we were, surely, having the best Thursday in the world.
When we thought our day couldn’t get any better, we found ourselves at Feu: an experimental fine-dining restaurant that Chris Hemsworth has described as "one of the most epic gourmet food adventures I've ever had.”
The five hours we spent in the restaurant’s surreal, timber-lined cocoon were unlike any restaurant experience I’ve ever had, but more on that another time. All I’ll say for now is that Chris was pretty on-the-money – and if you’ve got the cash to splash on an otherworldly dining experience in town, this is your place.
The next morning, we returned to the beachside kiosk next door to Feu and handed over the brioche bun and fresh eggs we’d been given as a takeaway hamper after dinner. It’s just one of Feu’s playful touches, and it’s adorable – bring back your hamper in the morning, and the team cook up your eggs and serve them sunny side up on Feu-branded cardboard trays.
After a wander around the markets, we headed out to sea with the team from Go Sea Kayak Byron Bay, and spent the morning watching sea turtles and dolphins popping up for air and surfers dancing along the waves at Wategos. At one point, our guide Dougie suggested we jump off for a swim, so I floated on my back in the gorgeous warm water, listening to what I’m certain was the dolphins wishing me a happy Easter.
No dream trip to Byron is complete without a meal at Raes, and lunch in that gorgeous ocean-facing dining room was as heavenly as you’d imagine: creamy oysters, perfectly chilled white wine, and a sense of future nostalgia that makes you realise what Dua Lipa was talking about when she named her album. Even as it’s happening, you know you’ll look back on a meal at Raes as one of the most special meals of your life.
We spent that afternoon walking along the sand and drinking Aperols at The Beachy as a live two-piece filled the room with covers of Otis Redding and D’Angelo. Then for our final meal together, we climbed the stairs to Casa Luna, and reminisced on our heavenly few days over zingy Southsides and scallops crowned in spicy 'nduja.
Our walk back to the hotel took us past bands on street corners with guitar cases filled with $5 notes, and pumping pubs with music spilling out onto the street. We thought about joining a queue, but the beds at Basq House were calling so we headed back to the Byron mansion we were happily calling home.
I woke the next morning to candyfloss clouds framing the almost-full moon and birds chirping in the trees. It had only been three days, but from my balcony overlooking the pool, holiday mode was the only state I knew.
Holidaying in Byron Bay might be a cliche, but hooly dooly it’s earned its stripes. If your vacay budget is big enough, Byron ticks every box.
Stay in the loop: sign up for our free Time Out Sydney newsletter for more news, travel inspo and activity ideas, straight to your inbox.