Vin-Cenzo’s, an Italian restaurant by the team behind Time Out Sydney’s Best Wine Bar 2023 Bar Copains, and recent hot newcomers, the wood-fired diner Bessie’s and snack-and-drink haven Alma’s, is now open in the former home of Bar Vincent in Darlinghurst. And just like cooking a ragù, its opening has created a stir.
That’s because most people don’t like change – and for good reason. The familiar is comforting, and if it ain’t broke – well, you know the drill. So, it was no surprise when news dropped that the cult Sydney spot was changing hands, you could hear a collective teardrop from all of Sydney’s chefs and food-lovers. The agnolotti del plin in a buttery sage-flecked sauce and rich, creamy vitello tonnato were next-level good. But here’s the thing about change – it’s the only constant in this life. And, for what it’s worth, I reckon the home at 174 Liverpool Street is in very capable hands.
Those hands belong to friends and co-owners Morgan McGlone, Sali Sasi and Nathan Sasi, who have Nomad and Belles Hot Chicken DNA between them. The trio said Bar Vincent was one of their favourite local haunts, and are keen to keep the Italian tradition alive.
Nathan Sasi says: “We’re excited to introduce a new era for this influential site on Liverpool St. Vin-Cenzo’s has been a labour of love, and it's been fun reimagining the space as something a little more playful and late-night leaning, while still honouring its roots. The menu leans into classic Italian flavours, but with a few unexpected twists inspired by our recent travels in North America eating in some of the more influential restaurants that hero contemporary Italian menus.
We want people to come here for dinner and stay until late, share a bottle of wine and come back again next week. That’s what Vin-Cenzo’s is all about,” he adds.
Opening menu highlights include rigatoni con la pajata (tripe, sweetbreads, tomato, mint and ricotta); house-made pork belly sausage with lentils and quince mustard; and for dessert, pig fat cannolo with ricotta and Sicilian almonds. There’s also a tin of Italian biscuits inspired by recipes from Nathan’s Sicilian godmother and neighbour. Go for those.
Wine-wise, group sommelier Ishan Kaplish (ex-Mimi’s, Tetsuya’s) has created a list that spotlights Italian, French and Australian drops, with a handful of bottles plucked from Morgan’s own cellar.
Architecture and design firm Studio Gram have created a beaut new look inspired by New York’s Italian dining scene. There’s new alfresco seating just in time for spring, and a late-night supper club runs until 2am on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.
Come check it out for yourself.
Find out more here.
Address: 174 Liverpool St, Darlinghurst NSW 2010
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