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Sydney’s got its fair share of beloved restaurants – but few reached the cult status of Bar Vincent. The low-lit Italian haunt had chefs and food-lovers wrapped around its olive-oil-slicked finger, so much so that, when co-owners Andy and Sarah announced they were closing the doors for good, you could almost hear the city’s collective gasp. Good news, then, that it was snapped up by a trio who loved the restaurant as much as anyone else: Nathan and Sali Sasi and Morgan McGlone from Sydney favourites Bar Copains, Bessie’s and Alma’s.
The guys initially kept things much the same, though they soon realised the business wasn’t sustainable. Plus, they wanted to create an offering that was authentic to them. So they stuck to their guns and, to many people's initial disappointment, transformed Bar Vincent into Vin-Cenzo’s. It’s still an Italian restaurant – just done their way.
There are similarities between the two. For one, they’re both bloody excellent. Some of Bar Vincent’s dishes live on at Vin-Cenzo's, like the vitello tonnato – reimagined into a cracking crudo with ruby-coloured Ulladulla tuna, dolloped with a creamy, anchovy-rich sauce. The curved arches remain, now painted a soft blue. And, importantly, they both have integrity – and that’s well worth its salt.
Before I've even paid the bill, I’m already thinking about when I can come back to Vin-Cenzo’s, and perhaps that’s all you really need to know.
The vibe
Designed by architecture and design firm Studio Gram and inspired by New York’s Italian dining scene, Vin-Cenzo's looks like a sunshine-warm, smart trattoria – with a side of fun. There are white tablecloths, burgundy leather seats and flickering candles. I’m soon clucking over the cute rooster water jugs and frilly, shell-like sconces. The music slaps, just like at Bar Copains. Look closely, and you’ll see Anthony Bourdain giving the finger in the kitchen.
The seating capacity inside has increased, and there's a new alfresco dining area out the front – making Vin-Cenzo’s the place for balmy-afternoon aperitivi.
The food
Mamma mia – I love the food here. Begin with a zucchini flower stuffed with five cheeses, perfumed with lemon zest, fried until golden and topped with an anchovy. Creamy, lemony, salty – boom. The tuna should follow; the clean-tasting fish injected with umami from tonnato, plus chives, onion and capers, before being loaded onto paper-thin Sardinian crisp bread.
Our waiter Nicholas says the melanzana norma is nearly as good as his nonna’s. A fried eggplant arrives shaped like a Discman, topped with salted ricotta snow and two basil leaves, resting on jammy, sweet tomatoes. Thin and crisp on the outside, airy and custardy inside, it’s as elegant as it is delicious. Order that.
The agnolotti in brodo features a savoury chicken broth with a rich mouthfeel – like chicken soup dialled up to the max – dotted with soft little parcels filled with textural mortadella and chicken. It tastes comforting yet refined; the best broth my date’s ever had. Meanwhile, a bowl of rigatoni coated in a rich ragu, alongside tender, honeycomb-like tripe and soft sweetbreads, tastes like I’m somewhere in Roma (one can dream).
We’re racing to see a show, but if you’ve got more time for dolce, there’s blood orange sorbet, fior di latte ice cream, pig-fat cannolo with ricotta and almonds, and a tin of Italian biscuits inspired by recipes from Nathan’s Sicilian godmother and neighbour.
The drinks
Kick the meal off with a holiday-like blood orange Sgroppino with vodka, prosecco and fruit sorbet. Or the party-starting pineapple Americano with Campari, sweet vermouth and spiced pineapple soda. Wine-wise, group sommelier Ishan Kaplish (ex-Mimi’s, Tetsuya’s) has created a list that spotlights Italian, French and Australian drops, with a handful of bottles plucked from Morgan’s own cellar. A glass of 2021 Marjan Simcic pinot grigio from Slovenia is floral and easy-drinking, while a 2024 glass of Vino Veritas sangiovese from the Adelaide Hills is soft with notes of dark fruits. Bonus points that there are a handful of glasses under $20.
Time Out tip
Watch this space – Vin-Cenzo’s is soon going to be introducing a late-night supper club until 2am on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.
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