Then and Now: Iconic locations from Wong Kar-wai's Chungking Express

It would be remiss not to feature the sprawling labyrinth which Chungking Express owes its name. One of Hong Kong's most infamous buildings, the Chungking Mansions is located in the low-rise area of Nathan Road and has a reputation to locals as a dark underbelly rife with crime, sex, and drugs. Although initially designated as a residential complex, the building contains many food stalls and independent shops run by vendors from all over the world. Since the release of the movie, hundreds of security cameras have been installed in the building – covering 90 percent of the building's public spaces – leading to a decrease in crime, and also an increase in tourists. The striking diversity of people you will find within the building –including backpackers, locals, and refugees – has earned international attention – Time Magazine labelled it 'Asia's best example of globalisation in action', and The Economist compared it to the Mos Eisley cantina (a tavern crowded with diverse races) in the original Star Wars. 

Chungking Mansions I Photograph: Shutterstock

Most of Chungking Express revolves around the Midnight Express, a late-night snack bar where Faye Wong's character works and the two policemen frequently visit. Located smack in the centre of Lan Kwai Fong's D'Aguilar Street, the snack bar has since been replaced by none other than the infamous 'Club 7-Eleven' – where partygoers now mingle and buy cheap drinks on a Friday night. Steeped in memories, this is an iconic spot in Hong Kong's cultural landscape – whether you're on a night out with some friends, or watching Faye Wong dance to California Dreamin' under the neon glow of a bygone era.

7-Eleven in Lan Kwai Fong

The Central–Mid-Levels Escalator is famous for several reasons – one for being the longest outdoor covered escalator system in the world, and another as a recurring film location in Chungking Express. Built in 1993, the escalator had just opened at the time of filming, and no movie had been shot there yet, which sparked director Wong Kar-wai's interest. In his film, the escalator – basked in melancholy green light evoking a heavy sense of urban isolation – follows the lives of the characters as they navigate through heartbreak and everyday life. Today, it has since become one of Hong Kong's busiest and most famous landmarks. The escalator carries almost 80,000 people to and from the Mid-Levels and downtown Central every day – making it a vital part of Hongkongers daily commute.  

Central to Mid-Levels Escalator I Photograph: Shutterstock

Just off the escalator is the Graham Street market in which multiple Chungking Express' scenes take place. We see Faye Wong's character run errands during the day, and our male protagonists wandering through its stalls late at night. Wedged between the wealthy and expatriate-filled thoroughfares of uptown Central, the market dates back more than 160 years, and is a bustling microcosm of everything Hong Kong – the clash of East and West, prosperity and tradition, and the marriage of old and new. Sadly, urban renewal projects in the area have led to the gradual disappearance of the market, but the remaining stalls and vendors still provide a valuable snapshot of history, their vibrance forever immortalised in Wong's luminous scenes.

Graham Street market I Photograph: Shutterstock

Although it's not at all obvious in the movie, the California restaurant where Cop 663 arranges a date is just opposite the street from Midnight Express. First opened by Allan Zeman – frequently dubbed the 'Father of Lan Kwai Fong' – in the 80s, the restaurant, along with its building, has since been replaced with the new California Tower – but the location remains an iconic monument in Hong Kong's nightlife scene. Today, the glittering tower soars above the Central skyline, hosting a plethora of the city's finest bars, restaurants, and nightclubs.

California Tower today I Photograph: Courtesy California Tower