When it comes to food, we Hongkongers have a serious love affair with Japanese cuisine. We enjoy everything from teppanyaki, yakitori, yakiniku, and most especially sushi and sashimi. In fact, Hong Kong is Japan's second biggest seafood market after Mainland China. However, due to the release of nuclear-contaminated water from Fukushima, the recent ban on imported seafood products from 10 prefectures in Japan poses a significant challenge for Japanese restaurants in the city.
The question on everyone’s mind is, is it still safe to eat seafood at your favourite Japanese restaurant?
While not all areas of Japan will be affected, some consumers may begin to view Japanese seafood with caution due to the news. The ban specifically targets a range of seafood products originating from Tokyo, Fukushima, Chiba, Tochigi, Ibaraki, Gunma, Miyagi, Niigata, Nagano, and Saitama. These products encompass all aquatic items harvested, manufactured, processed, or packed on or after August 24, 2023. The prohibited seafood includes live, frozen, chilled, dried, or preserved varieties, as well as sea salt and both unprocessed and processed seaweed.
Some Japanese restaurants in the city, including those with Michelin star accolades, have already implemented measures to ensure the safety of their customers even before the ban started.
Sushi Saito, the Michelin-starred restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, renowned for its authentic Edomae sushi, has been sourcing ingredients from Kyushu and Hokkaido for the past six months. They will continue to source high-quality ingredients from other parts of Japan, and are looking into getting ingredients from other parts of the world.
At Sushiyoshi in Tsim Sha Tsui, the branch of its two-Michelin star Osaka namesake, chef-owner Hiroki Nakanoue returns to the city to launch their new Global Footprints Omakase menu, inspired by his travels. This new offering features ingredients from Europe, Southeast Asia, and Greater China.
“We have not sourced from any of the banned prefectures for a number of years now. We have well-established suppliers from other prefectures, and we will continue to monitor the situation closely with guidance from the Hong Kong government,” he adds. Their new 16-course omakase menu will see aquatic produce like geoduck from Canada, oysters from Dibba Bay, the first and only gourmet oyster farm in the Middle East, and uni from Bohai Sea, China.
“We have not sourced from any of the banned prefectures for a number of years now. We have well-established suppliers from other prefectures, and we will continue to monitor the situation closely with guidance from the Hong Kong government,” he adds. Their new 16-course omakase menu will see aquatic produce like geoduck from Canada, oysters from Dibba Bay, the first and only gourmet oyster farm in the Middle East, and uni from Bohai Sea, China.
With some food sources now coming from various parts of the world, the question arises regarding the authenticity and quality of the dining experience for patrons seeking a Japanese culinary experience.
“The challenge is to ensure that we can consistently source seafood of good quality for a restaurant of our calibre," explains Chan. “Chef Hiroki will not compromise on quality – we’d prefer to adapt our menu with a new creation,” he adds. “His omakase menus are constantly adjusted to meet chef Hiroki's high standards of excellence, so this is not an unusual practice for us.”
At Kappou Mu, a restaurant specialising in traditional kappo cuisine (which involves cutting and simmering), 100 percent of their ingredients will remain imported from Japan. Head chef Alex Lam emphasises, “to provide an authentic Japanese dining experience, we will continue to serve only Japanese ingredients.”
Lam explains that their seafood primarily comes from Hokkaido, while their vegetables are sourced from Kyushu. Due to the seafood ban in Fukushima, the restaurant may face limited ingredient options. However, Lam assures customers that they will prioritise rigorous quality control measures to ensure the safety of the imported ingredients. To educate customers about the safety of their seafood offerings, Lam explains that diners will be informed about it during the presentation of each dish. Servers and chefs will highlight the origin of ingredients and reassure guests that the ingredients will not come from the 10 affected metropolises and prefectures.
Since the news of the Fukushima wastewater release broke, Hongkongers who love Japanese food have been divided in their viewpoints. Some say they are not bothered by the ban and will continue to eat at Japanese restaurants, while others worry that the quality of ingredients may decline.
According to Lap Leung, the regional sushi head chef at Sushi Rin, an omakase restaurant with branches in Tsim Sha Tsui and Sheung Wan, there have been no significant changes in the dining habits of their loyal customers since the news of the Fukushima wastewater release. “They still prioritise high-quality Japanese ingredients,” he explains. The restaurants primarily source their ingredients from Japan, particularly seafood from Hokkaido and vegetables from Kyushu. However, some seasonal vegetables, like asparagus, are purchased from other countries. Leung shares, “Japanese cuisine is beloved by Hong Kong diners, and at the moment, we haven't experienced any major impacts on our business.” He adds, “Our main concern is maintaining the quality and standards of the food we serve in the restaurant.”
At Sushiyoshi, Chan believes that diners in Hong Kong will continue to enjoy Japanese cuisine. “It’s a love affair which will continue. “We are witnessing differing opinions on this matter, but the demand remains strong,” he adds.
It is too early to determine if diners in the city will change their habits and perceptions regarding Japanese cuisine. “The long-term effects may include a reduced supply of certain ingredients, but Sushi Rin will dedicate more effort to quality control and cross-checking the radiation inspection certificates issued by the Japanese government,” explains Leung.
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