What is it: A 14-course (plus extras) Santa Monica omakase off Ocean Avenue from restaurateur Adrian Taylor, Osaka-born chef Yasu Iwai and beverage and operations director Sarah Daisy Jackson, with just two seatings a night for up to 10 guests ($295 per person).
Why we love it: Iwai, who trained under Hiroyuki Sato of Tokyo’s Hakkoku, skips the usual suspects. You’ll never see kampachi here, since every sushi spot serves it. Instead, he brings in rare picks from Toyosu Market, like yagara (cornetfish) with a shiso leaf, served over exquisitely handled, 100 percent Koshihikari rice. Other nigiri standouts include ishigaki dai (spotted knifejaw), amadai (tilefish), tachiuo (largehead hairtail), torched kamasu (barracuda) and a tuna flight. Just as much of the menu comes from down the street: Iwai and Jackson hit the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market every week, and one or two dishes change every two to three weeks based on what they find, like bruléed figs over sesame paste or Asian pear with wakame and lobster. The cooked dishes shine just as bright: cherrywood-smoked fuefuki dai with house ponzu, Indonesian blue crab in dashi, sweet summer uni over sushi rice with ikura, and Iwai’s obachan’s (grandmother’s) truffle lobster chawanmushi. The house rule is that no one leaves hungry. Jackson’s desserts, like a plum granita with three types of plum over lemon curd, finish things off with the same hyper-seasonal approach.
Drinks are just as thoughtful. Jackson, formerly the lead bartender at Bavel, met Taylor across her bar, where the two bonded over a shared love of vermouth. Vermouth is now the backbone of Kogen’s high-altitude-inspired beverage program: bottles from the Alps, the Andes and Catalonia (surprisingly great with sushi) share the list with Hakkaisan snow-aged sake served at a near-frozen 30 degrees and low-ABV sake and shochu cocktails. The shiso-and-sake forward East Side is wonderfully herbaceous and crisp. Sake, cocktail and vermouth flights are all available, but the vermouth flight is the one to order; you won’t find anything like it at other omakases.
Time Out tip: Not drinking? The NA libations are worthy in their own right and in keeping with the farmers’ market philosophy, like a strawberry and shiso soda made with Harry’s Berries strawberries.
Address: 109 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401
Opening hours: Tue–Sat 5:30–11pm



























