Katong
Photograph: Shutterstock
Photograph: Shutterstock

The ultimate guide to Katong and Joo Chiat

This charming neighbourhood is rich with Peranakan culture and heritage

Cam Khalid
Contributor: Simran Panaech
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There's a reason why Easties (people who live and grew up in the east of Singapore) are particularly proud of their neighbourhoods. Some call us snobs, but we don’t mind. Before being crowned Singapore’s first Heritage Town in 2011, Katong and Joo Chiat were known for something else. Short for Tanjong Katong, Katong was named after an exotic species of sea turtle, now extinct. Joo Chiat, on the other hand, was named after philanthropist Chew Joo Chiat. Both areas were once a small village of seaside retreats for the wealthy. 

Today, this Peranakan enclave in the east is synonymous with Peranakan cuisine, particularly a spicy Straits Chinese noodle soup called Katong Laksa. It has also gained traction over the years for its blend of attention-grabbing shophouses, diverse dining options, and indie retail stores. Is it any wonder, then, that Katong has been named one of the coolest neighbourhoods in the world? Rediscover this charming hood for yourself, here are the places you should know to get started. 

RECOMMENDED: Ultimate guide to Singapore's neighbourhoods and the ultimate guide to Marine Parade and East Coast Park

Explore the 'hood

  • Things to do

The main star of Joo Chiat and Katong – the charming two and three-storey shophouses, rich in heritage and culture. Take a jaunt down Koon Seng Road where you’ll find the popular eye-candies adorned in ceramic Peranakan floral motifs, geometrical tiles, pastel hues and even Chinese couplets which are said to bring good fortune. 

While you can’t photograph its interiors, Rumah Bebe has eye-catching cerulean exteriors and bright Peranakan tiles that your ‘gram desperately needs. For something less in-your-face, take a stroll down Lotus @ Joo Chiat, a stretch of 18 white conserved shophouses with green windows and doors with intricate carvings. Lace up and grab your camera – we’re going shophousing.

  • Art
  • Street art

If you're strolling along East Coast Road – en route to ice cream parlour Birds of Paradise – remember to keep your eyes peeled. There is a myriad of Insta-worthy urban artworks that bathe the walls of shophouses and other buildings here. Lurking away at one of the small side laneways between two shophouses at 107 East Coast Road is a majestic masterpiece titled Medley Alley. It resembles wings made of colourful, Peranakan-inspired tiles, representing the metamorphosis between generations. For a colossal wall art, feast your eyes on Jousting Painters along Everitt Road. It brilliantly captures the playful imagination of children.

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  • Shopping
  • Marine Parade

Katong Antique House is pure living memory. This Peranakan house has been perfectly preserved as it was in the old days, and is filled with heirlooms and artefacts including traditional Peranakan crockery, jewellery, beaded slippers, costumes, furniture and photographs of Singapore's earlier generations of Babas and Bibiks. The vast collection can be credited to 40 long years of effort by Mr. Peter Wee, a fourth-generation Peranakan who inherited the house from his maternal grandfather in 1966. Himself the great-grandson of philanthropist Tan Keong Saik, Baba Peter Wee bought, restored and sold Peranakan-related items from 1971 and eventually turned his inheritance into Katong Antique House in 1979. Although he has since passed on, his legacy, alongside Peranakan culture and heritage, continues to live on in this irreplaceable private museum. Read our interview with the new guardians of the museum, Eric Ang and Angeline Kong, here.

  • Museums
  • Geylang

The Eurasian Heritage Gallery gives an insight into the lives of the Eurasian community in Singapore. Located in the Eurasian Community House in the heart of Katong, the gallery showcases the community's most prominent personalities, the history of Eurasians in Singapore, and its culture – which includes weddings, traditional outfits, and cuisine, among others. 

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  • Things to do
  • Cultural centres
  • Marine Parade

As the name suggests, Straits Enclave is a haven for Peranakans and those interested in Peranakan culture. Experience the Straits Golden era of the early 1900s at this private museum, which is decked out with heirlooms and precious antiques collected from generations of Peranakans. This is also where traditional culture and crafts are kept alive – try on a full kebaya, learn the art of Peranakan beading, indulge in a homecooked meal, or play the traditional Cherki card game. The best part is getting to interact with members of the Peranakan community, who have a wealth of knowledge about their rich culture and heritage. 

  • Things to do
  • Walks and tours
  • Geylang

This private museum gives visitors a taste of old-world Peranakan charm. It is a treasure trove of Peranakan furniture, costumes, trinkets, and even old black-and-white photographs – all owned by collector Alvin Yapp who is also of Peranakan descent. Take a tour around the shophouse residence with Alvin, and learn about the rich Peranakan history, culture, and even embroidery craft. That's not all – an hour tour includes tea, while a two-hour tour of lunch or dinner with authentic Nonya dishes prepared by his mother. Mmm, nothing like home-cooked food.

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  • Kids
  • Playgrounds
  • Geylang

Burn some energy at this long, narrow recreational area sandwiched between houses in Joo Chiat. Here, kids (and kidults) are welcome to take on one of the city's 15 vertical playgrounds: the Wallholla Playground. It's equipped with rope bridges, a rock climbing wall, and a fireman's pole to boot. However, note that the playground can only hold up to 30 kids.

  • Health and beauty
  • Spas
  • Marine Parade

Take a break from exploring the Katong area and get your trotters kneaded into utter submission with the award-winning Feet Haven. Not your average spa, the cosy space is tricked out with hanging light bulbs, standing spotlights, and quirky furniture to make you feel at ease. At the hands of its experienced masseurs, the popular 60-minute foot massage ($42) will have your feet feel brand new once again.

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  • Hotels
  • Marine Parade
Hotel Indigo Singapore Katong
Hotel Indigo Singapore Katong

For a staycay with Peranakan flavour, book a stay at this boutique-style hotel. It's splashed out in vivid colours and Peranakan touches abound: from floor tiles that mimic the mosaic pattern found in Peranakan abodes, to Singer sewing machine legs that form the base of in-room vanity counters and ornate display cases that double up as the minibar. Did we mention the enamel washbasin for you to have a foot soak in just like the matriarchs of old? But if that doesn't quite cut it, there's a rooftop lap pool, as well as a 24-hour gym, a lobby lounge/business centre stocked with local books, and an in-house restaurant that stays faithful to Nyonya flavours.

Satiate your appetite

  • Pizza
  • Marine Parade

Once a private home dining experience, La Bottega Enoteca is now a cosy Italian bistro in the Joo Chiat area - it’s got a reservation waitlist of at least a month. You’ve got just the one choice: the six-course menu ($139/person). While their double crunch pizza is the piece de resistance, their “Newpolitan” pizzas are obvious winners too, showcasing both traditional and modern flavours. There's one included in the 6-course menu - choose from the likes of a classic margherita or, as avant garde as it sounds, sardines with ricotta.

  • Marine Parade

328’s laksa ($5.35-$7.50) lets you scoop all the good stuff into one spoonful – even the fishcake is thinly sliced so you’ll get a bite of it along with prawns, beansprouts and cockles. The broth itself is thick and coconut-y, which may to too jelak for some. But not us. And while you’re at one of its many outlets, don’t forget to order a slice of otah ($1.40) to accompany the dish. 

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  • Indian
  • Marine Parade

One of Singapore's best kept secrets, this small stall is only open on weekdays and even so, tends to run out pretty early so it might take you a few tries before you finally get to try it. It's all in the actual name of the shop, really. The prata kosongs here are super crispy on the outside and much fluffier on the inside. It may sound and look so simple but there's a reason why people keep returning to this gem in Joo Chiat. 

  • Hawker
  • Bedok

Any respectable list of the best prawn mee in Singapore has to include Beach Road Prawn Noodle House. Opened by the son of the founder of Blanco Court Prawn Mee (another excellent prawn mee stall), Beach Road Prawn Noodle House draws crowds up till its 4pm closing time. Expect a sweet and robust broth, fresh and bouncy prawns, with added texture and crunch from beansprouts and shallots. It does the dry version well too, thanks to the fragrant chilli sauce. A basic bowl of prawn noodle starts at $6, going up to $12 for jumbo prawn noodles. If you're hungry, try out the ngoh hiang too. 

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  • Peranakan
  • Marine Parade

Katong has no shortage of old-school Peranakan restaurants but Baba Chews is offering a twist on the traditional. The modern restaurant is housed in the old Joo Chiat Police Station, a designated heritage building, and serves reinterpreted local classics such as chilli crab tagliatelle ($20) with deep-fried soft shell crab and a luscious sous vide egg. Also popular on its menu is the chicken rendang lasagna ($18), spicy and creamy layers of pasta and fragrant dry curry that's made in limited quantities daily.

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  • Singaporean
  • Marine Parade

Sinpopo aims to emulate Singapore as it was in the '80s, with its grilled shophouse storefront, tiled floors and rattan chairs. Much of the furniture is also made by the owners of the brand, a testament to the effort put into this joint. Food here is prepared the traditional way – its nasi lemak rice is steamed in a muslin cloth, and its coffee is made Nanyang-style with the kopi sock. Dessert selections are also an ode to local culture, with gula melaka, pulut hitam and kueh sarlat cakes ($8 each) being some of its most popular offerings.

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  • Ice-cream parlours
  • Marine Parade

Beat the heat with freshly made gelato from Birds of Paradise. Delicately-perfumed and sophisticated, its botanical-inspired flavours taste like edible poetry. This tiny gelato nook along East Coast Road Road is standing-room-only and perpetually packed. Flavour, texture and colour are coaxed from flowers, herbs, nuts and spices for signatures like white chrysanthemum, strawberry basil, and lemongrass ginger (from $4.70 a scoop). Even their housemade waffle-cone ($1) is scented with thyme.

  • Marine Parade

Chin Mee Chin has long been a breakfast institution. After a two-year renovation, the old-school bakeshop finally welcomes back diners. Now, the heritage business is helmed by the pastry chef Maxine Ngooi from the Ebb and Flow Group, who is also responsible for the sweet treats at Tigerlily Patisserie located just a few minutes away. 

Walking into the new Chin Mee Chin feels almost like entering a time capsule: those familiar with the original will recognise the old-world floor tiles, accompanied by similar dining tables and chairs. Expect to find buns, toasted over charcoal grill just like the yesteryears, then slathered with its signature kaya spread ($2.20). Or relish in familiar finds of plain ($1.60) and chocolate ($1.80) cupcakes.

But remember to have a taste of the new additions, too, with flavours that remain rooted in tradition. Hae bi hiam buns ($2.20) pack spice and umami in every bite, cream horns ($2) are piped with smooth vanilla cream, and fluffy chiffon cake comes sweetened with gula Melaka ($2.20). Outside, the new Chin Mee Chin also comes filled with more alfresco seatings, and even spots a colourful retro-style mural.

Thirst quencher

  • Coffeeshops
  • Geylang

Kohi Roastery & Coffee Bar isn’t all that remarkable at first glance. At a fleeting look, it’s a literal hole-in-the-wall. Mind you, it’s a rather unique “hole” that’s framed by a bright canary yellow paint job - one that has hoards of customers waiting patiently outside for their coffee fix during the day. 

This particular coffee chain might hail from Bangkok, but there’s certainly no shortage of good coffee roasters in Singapore. And that’s exactly why Kohi is using a Red Dot blend, as a nod to our local coffee scene. Expect notes of citrus and tropical fruits, with an overlaying base of black tea. 

The menu is kept simple with no frills - choose from standard orders like White ($6), Black ($4) or Espresso ($4). There’s also an Espresso Tonic or Coco(nut) Espresso, both priced at $7, for those looking to venture beyond their usuals.  

There’s no seating at this coffee bar. It’s more of a takeaway joint, but if you really need a reprieve from the afternoon sun, you can head indoors to next-door neighbour Crane Living. Go up the stairs to the second floor - there’s a balcony area that overlooks the colourful Peranakan shophouses of Koon Seng Road. Over here, it’s a dual purpose space that’s housed in a conservation shophouse: it’s simultaneously a tasteful homeware shop and a co-working space for start-ups.

  • Cafés
  • Geylang

Away from the city, Common Man Coffee Roasters heads east to open its third outpost in a breezy Joo Chiat shophouse. Step into the breezy 80-seater space, which oozes industrial charm, and look forward to exclusive brews and new menu additions.

From the espresso bar, sip on regular brews of mocha ($6.50) and flat white ($6), made using its signature floral house blend, or beat the heat with a bottle of coffee kombucha ($8) with tangy and bitter notes reminiscent of an espresso tonic. And beyond regular brews, a separate filter coffee brewing bar shines the spotlight on lesser-seen, experimental blends. The line-up rotates according to what is in season, and it kicks things off with the limited-release Cup of Excellence from Ethiopia. The resulting brew ($9) is a delightful showcase of fruity flavours at first sip, before taking on a pleasant, mulled wine-like quality.

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  • Cafés
  • Bedok

Away from the buzzy Katong street lies a new, tranquil hideout. The Brewing Ground, located on the site of the old Telok Kurau Primary School, offers a quiet spot for those looking to get their coffee and brunch fix. To get to the café, look out for a towering heritage kapok tree that has been around for over 80 years.

The glasshouse-inspired interior feels warm and bright, and the breezy alfresco deck comes fitted with extra seating to accommodate those with pets. Coffess include some warm brews (from $4.50). The selection, developed in collaboration with specialty coffee bar The Glasshouse, aims to spotlight beans from local roasters that include 2° North Coffee Co. 

  • Kopitiam
  • Marine Parade

Merging the coffee shop and bar bistro concepts, Alibabar the Hawker Bar features five stalls selling kopitiam staples like hokkien mee and prawn noodles, as well as Japanese cuisine, gourmet burgers, value-for-money French fare, and of course international beers, including upmarket brews like Belgian Trappistes Rochefort beers.

Treat yourself

  • Shopping
  • Lifestyle
  • Geylang

Your home should be your palace – to relax and unwind after a long day of work. And luxury sheets and furnishings from Sojao certainly won't hurt to turn your humble abode into a lush sanctuary. Now, the luxury home essentials brand has opened its very first brick-and-mortar store at the electic Joo Chiat. Step into this spacious and calming space to get a feel of organic sheets and silky soft loungwear, and pick up other home essentials from partnering brands such as Carrom, Good Good Ceramics and loom & stone. 

  • Shopping
  • Music and entertainment
  • Marine Parade

Founded by Andre Reyes, also know as DJ Drem, this music space is more than meets the eye. Besides offering stacks of records for music aficionados to browse through upstairs, the laidback store also invites customers to enjoy a cuppa specialty joe and craft beers, bagels and New York styled pizza slices downstairs. It's an all-in-one New York inspired record-pizza-coffeeshop that also offers a co-working space (for $5 per hour) if you want to work to some funky grooves. Their Instagram usually shows whenever they have events too such as live DJ vinyl sets ranging from reggae and dub step to hip hop and electronic music.

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  • Shopping
  • Grocery stores
  • Marine Parade

There’s nothing small about Little Farms’ latest outlet in the east of Singapore. The gourmet grocery store has its largest shopfront – a sprawling 6,000-square-feet space – along Joo Chiat Road. Expect an expanded selection of fresh produce, sourced from producers and farmers from Australia, Europe, and around the world. And there is more than just fresh produce and pantry staples; beyond supermarket essentials, Little Farms at Katong also comes outfitted with a butcher counter, coffee kiosk, all-day bistro, and full-service bar.

  • Shopping
  • Marine Parade

You can't stroll down East Coast Road without making a pitstop at Rumah Kim Choo. The two-unit shophouse houses a heritage gallery upstairs, and a Peranakan shop downstairs. Under the banner Kim Choo Kueh Chang, it also sells the family's signature pyramid-shaped rice dumplings which come wrapped in bamboo leaves and stuffed with various savoury fillings such as chicken, and chilli prawn. That's not all – it also hosts walking trails, private boutique tours, Peranakan beading workshops, and nonya kueh sampling sessions. And if you're looking to own a bespoke kebaya, drop by its boutique gallery for a free fitting session.

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  • Shopping
  • Marine Parade

Like its OG store in Bras Basah, this east-side Cat Socrates outlet offers a cornucopia of unique home décor, books, trinkets, bicycle accessories, craft, and paper paraphernalia. It's cosy wonderland to discover lifestyle goods created by local brands and designers, as well as books and magazines published local writers and illustrators. Keep a lookout for the resident cat shopkeeper Zoo-Zoo – if he isn’t waiting to greet you by the door, he might be resting in his bed by the window. 

  • Shopping
  • Marine Parade

Browse Elyse and I’s collection of whimsical beach totes and pouches at this new multi-label boutique. Hand-embroidered designs of palm trees, pineapples and watermelons that scream summer adorn the front of these bags. Other brands in store include Australian gemstone jeweller Elverd Designs, menswear label Hanway and Louise Hill Design’s artworks. 

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  • Shopping
  • Marine Parade

Vintage lovers: behold Singapore Trading Post, a homeware emporium filled with memorabilia sourced from places that used to be the trade routes of Singapore’s colonial past. One-of-a-kind pieces to covet include large statement furniture like grandfather clocks and bronze statues to trinkets like vintage keys and an old pair of binoculars. Plus, there's a cool corner that pays homage to the Singapore of old, displaying nostalgia-inducing items like Sinalco trays and Kickapoo ads.

Explore more neighbourhoods

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