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Kingfish has been getting a bad rap for some time. Similar to burrata and steak frites, its mainstream popularity and presence on so many Sydney menus have led to it becoming a safe, boring option.
The kingfish dish ($28) at Piqu is here to say otherwise.
Served larb-style, the raw fish comes chopped up alongside grilled zucchini, fragrant lime leaf and coriander, bolstered by a palm sugar-sweet, tangy and sharp nam jim, topped with praline peanuts for a caramelised nutty note. On the side are perfectly crisp lettuce leaves to scoop up the fish like a san choy bow. It’s fresh, crunchy and full of flavour – everything I love about Southeast Asian food.
“I feel like I’m on holiday,” my date says to me. I do too.
The vibe
Piqu – a play on the word ‘piquant’, meaning spicy, interesting, sharp – opened on Newtown’s King Street in April. It comes from chefs Jihwan Choi (ex-Momofuku Seiobo, Callao) and Nicola D’Angela (ex-Osteria di Russo & Russo, Callao), who met working in the kitchens and connected over their shared love of bold Southeast Asian cuisine. Piqu is their first restaurant together.
Inside is modest and casual, in line with an independent operator fit-out, and not one of Sydney’s shiny, mega hospo groups. The 35-seat dining room features dark wooden stools and playful drawings of chillies and limes that bring colour to the walls. Spot the painting by Choi’s wife – a Last Supper-style piece featuring the chefs with Pulp Fiction nods. But you’re not coming to Piqu for the dining room and vibe. It’s all about the flavours.
And the service, tonight led by manager Roume, is great. Our water glasses are topped up throughout the meal, our tables are wiped between courses, we’re given fresh plates between and serviettes are folded when we visit the bathroom (my personal marker for top service). Even the more-green waitstaff are happy to chat to the chefs when I throw a few questions their way.
A well-dressed couple walks through the door, one wearing a beret and the other in a blazer. I can’t help myself. “It’s really delicious,” I blurt out.
“Oh, we know. We’re locals – this is our third time.”
The food
Piqu’s menu celebrates the flavours, herbs and textures found over Southeast Asia, with a particular focus on Thailand, dancing from snacks to raw and salads to small plates, larger numbers, sides and desserts.
You should probably kick things off with chicken skin ($9) – deep-fried until it’s golden and crunchy, just like chicharron, served with a sweet and jammy pineapple nam prik (and even better with a cold Leo Lager $12).
A generous serving of crisp-skinned juicy pork jowl ($24) comes with a bold nam jim, heady with garlic and fish sauce, as well as lettuce and fragrant shiso. Pick it, rip it, dip it in – fun and delicious.
For mains, we bypass the fried spatchcock with red curry ($40) and the catch of the day (market price) with tom kha, pepper and garlic chive for a Laos-style osso buco stew ($46), aromatic with dill and lime leaf and flavoured with lemongrass, chilli and ginger; the meat is fall-apart tender. The roti ($10) is excellent – buttery, flaky and golden.
For something sweet, try the chocolate cake ($16) with sansho pepper, cashew brownie, or the coffee parfait ($14) with milk granita and dulce de leche.
The drinks
The Southeast Asian flavours carry into the cocktail list, which features things like the Thai Peanut Colada ($22), Mango Chilli Negroni ($23) and Lemongrass Margarita ($23), alongside the classics. Over on the wine list, Alice Massaria, who has worked at Sydney favourites including The Gidley and Bistecca, has pulled together a thoughtful selection designed to go with spice-rich food.
Not drinking booze? No worries. On the night we visited we opted for a mocktail – the team whipped us up a fruity passionfruit, calamansi and soda drink that tasted tangy and refreshing with a touch of sweetness.
Why we love it:
Piqu is the opposite of colour beige – and it’s been one of my most enjoyable meals of 2026 so far. Come check it out before the rest of Sydney hears (and order the kingfish).
Time Out tip:
Piqu has launched bottomless lunch on Saturdays. Think 90 minutes of delicious Southeast Asian plates with free-flowing wine and beer for $79 per person. You can upgrade to bottomless cocktails for an extra $15 per person. It kicks off from 12pm.
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