Close up of Sydney Opera House
Photograph: Destination NSW
Photograph: Destination NSW

How to have the ultimate arts escape in Sydney

Don't let the Sydney's stunning natural beauty deceive you – the city is the perfect escape for culture vultures

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Melbourne sure likes to claim the title of "Australia's cultural capital", but there are other cities in Australia that house a world-class arts industry. 

Consider this: if Melbourne is a dark and mysterious Charles Blackman painting, then Sydney is a bright and colourful Grace Cossington Smith. Colour, light and heat pervades Sydney and it’s reflected in the city’s zest for culture, not to mention its dining scene and penchant for the outdoors.

Planning an arts and culture escape to Sydney? Here's our guide to making the most of a creative getaway in the Harbour City. 

Recommended: 50 things everyone in Sydney needs to do at least once.

Do

It’s fair to say that anyone who’s grown up in Australia is fairly familiar with the Sydney Opera House. Or are you? As it turns out, there’s a tonne of history, stories and facts about this iconic building that would surprise even a dedicated Sydneysider – and you can find out all about them on one of the Sydney Opera House tours.

These tours take you to all the nooks and crannies that you wouldn’t normally see at a regular Opera House event while also sharing with you some of the venue’s colourful history – from construction disputes to live chickens on cellists. 

You’ll also get to peek inside the new digital experience, which recreates the Sydney Opera House concert experience in an immersive digital theatre.

If you want to visit the raw, beating heart of Sydney's creativity, put aside at least half a day to visit Newtown. The inner west suburb is humming with creativity, with its main drag, King Street, packed with cafés and cool stores. While you could spend all day exploring its every laneway and sidestreet, for first-timers, the big drawcards in Newtown are its array of vintage fashion stores and its collection of street art. 

If the allure vintage and upcycled fashion is what hooks you, drop into stores like Vintage@313, Cream and Uturn to trawl through the thousands of retro threads. The stores themselves are well worth a stickybeak too, even if you’re not set on buying. 

Now if you’re keen to discover Newtown’s street art, it is entirely possible to do so using the “what’s that over there” technique. However, if you’d like a wee bit of guidance, the Newtown Grafitti Map shows you where all the major murals are scattered around the suburb.

If you're interested in the visual arts, a trip to Art Gallery of New South Wales is a must. The grand gallery was established in 1871 and is the leading museum of art in New South Wales and Sydney, as well as one of Australia's foremost cultural institutions. It holds significant collections of Australian, European and Asian art, and presents nearly 40 exhibitions annually. When we visited the showstopping exhibition was Streeton (Nov 7, 2020-Feb 14, 2021), the most significant survey of Australian impressionist, Arthur Streetonthat has ever been held. Notably, AGNSW is the home of the Archibald Prize, arguably Australia's most famous art prize. 

And although White Rabbit Gallery doesn't have the same impressive facade of AGNSW, it's certainly one gallery not to miss. You'll find Judith Neilson's four-storey temple to contemporary Chinese art in Chippendale where it houses one of the world's largest collections of 21st-century Chinese art in a sleek modern outfit. 

You'll also want to make time to pop into the Museum of Contemporary Art. The MCA is one of Australia's leading institutions of art by living artists, and regularly hosts exhibitions that present contemporary artists (both Australian and international) in a manner accessible to all visitors – not just those with an understanding of art history and terms.

Eat

Everyone who visits Sydney should really go to Bondi institution, Icebergs, at least once in their life. Not only will you be treated to fine food, but you’ll also be privy to some of the Harbour City’s best views (when we visited we were treated to a literal rainbow over Bondi Beach at sunset) along with a selection of its most stylish set. 

The location of the restaurant is just the entrée; the combination of refined Italian fare and elegant service is really what puts Icebergs in our restaurant hall of fame (quite, literally).

Before checking out the art, entertainment and shopping of Newtown, we suggest fueling up at Cuckoo Callay. This dinky train station café speaks right to Melbourne’s “cafés should be squished into any and all available street space” maxim. Whether you choose to sit inside or outside, there’s an air of the bohemian about the venue, which serves up an all-day menu of brunch and brunch-adjacent fare. There's a strict no bookings policy so head there on a weekday for your best chance of being seated (or opt for takeaway from the window stall).

If you want food as pretty as Sydney itself, Concrete Jungle should be on your list. Conveniently located in Chippendale (an easy walk from Central Station), this café is all about serving up wholesome meals that just happen to look incredible at the same time.

For an edible representation of Sydney, order Concrete Jungle’s signature dish, the Blue Majik Smoothie bowl. The dish consists of banana, pineapple, coconut milk and blue spirulina blended and topped with puffed granola, blueberries, toasted coconut and edible flowers. It looks like the beach and tastes like a summer holiday. If you’d prefer heartier fare, there’s plenty of traditional options available – though if ordering toast we’d recommend opting for it with the house-made banana and blueberry jam.

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Drink

The semi-subterranean Poly might technically be a wine bar, but it's pretty easy to spoil your dinner by generously sampling the bar snacks menu. They say don't fill up on bread but it's hard advice to follow with Poly's anchovy toasts. The grilled mortadella is lighter, though packed with flavour thanks to the pineapple mostarda that turns it into something akin a Hawaiian pizza.

A selected list of wines by the glass is offset by the extensive bottle list, which is largely European. It's not all wine at Poly, though, with a number of sake, cocktails, beers and ciders available too from a bar staff who clearly know their stuff.

Bodega x Wyno is a wine and tapas bar brought to you by the Porteño restaurant family. The venue is a delightful Frankenstein's monster of sorts, combining Surry Hill's old Bodega tapas bar with the site's former occupant, Italian wine bar 121BC.

Its lineage means Bodega x Wyno allows guests to experience the best of both worlds, whether you're looking for a shared dinner of small plates or an evening sampling fines wines. The team know their stuff too; instead of offering wines by the bottle or the glass, all wines are effectively available by the glass. Simply let your server know what sort of wines you're into and they'll find something to suit your tastes. And if nothing else, be sure to order the fish fingers, garlicky slices of charred toast topped with tender ceviche. 

  • Hotels
  • Boutique hotels
  • Surry Hills
  • Recommended

From the website through to the minimalist lobby, every detail in Paramount House Hotel has been carefully considered, meticulously placed and kept affectionately local.

On our recent visit, we stayed in one of the loft rooms, a stylish two-storey space with a secluded courtyard and an elevated bed (complete with the softest linen) overlooking the living space. 

Regarding amenities, the room is kitted out with Aesop hand soap and cream, but also shampoo, conditioner and shower gel in the shower and bath. With loft rooms, you'll want to be very comfortable with any potential roommates because while there's a separate room for the toilet, the shower and bath unit is in the living space. 

Shrug off that prudity by popping open one local bevvies found in the mini-bar fridge tucked away under the sink, which doubles as your dresser, kitchenette and bathroom mirror.

Your mini-bar is a cut above the industry standard and, in addition to a premium selection of beers and wines, comes stocked with all the accoutrements to make a fine cheese platter. Of course, if you don't want to sloth out inside, the hotel is next door to Chin Chin as well as around the corner from DOC. Or enjoy the best of both worlds and order delivery to enjoy as room service.

Want to catch a show while in Sydney?

  • Musicals
  • Elizabeth Bay
  • 3 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
If the leading lady of a daytime telenovela was to read too many pop-psychology books while downing a double Espresso Martini, you might get something close to Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown. This musical comedy based on Pedro Almodóvar’s 1988 cinema cult classic is given a neon-lit, red-curtained makeover at Sydney’s Hayes Theatre. With precision taking a backseat to passion, director Alexander Berlage (Cry-Baby, American Psycho) delivers a stylish descent into screwball mania. The action takes place in Madrid, Spain, where Amy Hack’s (Yentl) heartbroken actress, Pepa, is having a terrible, very bad day, which we see play out from depressive start to high-flung resolution. Her lover Iván breaks up with her over answering machine, and thus, her Odyssey-styled mission to find and confront him begins. Along the journey, Pepa butts heads with Iván’s scorned ex-wife Lucia (Tisha Keleman), his son and his own frustrated fiancée, as well as her wildly unravelling best friend, Candela (Grace Driscoll).  With a book by Jeffrey Lane (known for his musical adaption of Dirty Rotten Scoundrels) and music and lyrics by David Yazbek (Dead Outlaw), the original Broadway production of Women on the Verge had a relatively short lifespan – closing soon after it received poor reviews, and even poorer ticket sales. This is where Berlage’s adept hand at re-inventing cult flops takes charge – finding a space for his avant-garde style through sharp angles, frenetic choreography, and...
  • Theatre & Performance
If you had the good fortune of seeing theatremaker and all-out triple-threat Virginia Gay kick down the saloon doors and tear up the stage as Calamity Jane, then you’ll immediately understand two things. Firstly, why Gay’s gender-bending turn as the iconic frontierswoman is so joyously unforgettable. And secondly, you’ll get why we’re losing our minds over the announcement that Calamity Jane is coming back this October. That’s right, Gay is teaming back up with director Richard Carroll (co-artistic director of the much-loved Hayes Theatre Co) for an all-new immersive staging of Calamity Jane in The Studio at the Sydney Opera House, no less.  “I love the show, and I love what it does to people,” said Gay, speaking exclusively with Time Out about this exciting announcement. Audiences never stop asking for it – and sometimes, apparently, you should give an audience what they want!? Packed with spontaneity and joy (and a load more queer subtext than you might expect from a show based on a real-life person who lived in America’s Wild West era) this witty show sold out multiple seasons in Sydney, Melbourne and on tour after opening in 2017. The role also earned Gay the Sydney Theatre Award for Best Actress, enchanting audiences and critics alike – but stepping back into Calamity’s cowboy boots is not something that she ever expected to do again. However, it was last year, when she was rehearsing a special one-off reprisal of the character for a fundraiser to celebrate ten years...
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  • Musicals
  • Darling Harbour
  • 3 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
If you’re of a certain age, you have history (HIStory, perhaps?) with Michael Jackson. I remember getting ‘Thriller’ on cassette as a kid. ‘Dangerous’ was one of the first CDs I ever owned. I remember seeing the extended music video for ‘Thriller’ on VHS, which came packaged with a behind-the-scenes documentary. One woman, cornered for a quick vox pop at one of the filming locations, asserted that she loved Jackson because he was “down to earth”, which is darkly hilarious in hindsight.  Down to earth? The press called him “wacko Jacko” – we all did. He slept in a hyperbaric chamber. He owned the Elephant Man’s skeleton. His skin kept getting paler, his nose thinner. What a weird guy! Was any of it true? Hard to say. Even today, when a careless tweet is like a drop of blood in a shark tank to fans and journos alike, the media furor around Michael Jackson stands as one of the most frenetic in living memory, eclipsing the likes of Beatlemania. Jackson wasn’t bigger than God, he was God to a lot of people – the King of Pop, the first Black artist to smash through the MTV colour barrier, an artist, an icon, a living legend. Then came the allegations of child sexual abuse, which first began in August 1993, and continue to this day. For those who were still on the fence, the documentary Leaving Neverland, released in 2019, saw many more fans abandon Jackson, who died in 2009 at the age of 50. And so, it makes sense that MJ the Musical would set Jackson’s relationship with the...
  • Drama
  • Surry Hills
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
What does it take to choose your values and beliefs over those of others, and to fight for them? What does it take for a woman to be defiant – to go against what is expected of her, and perhaps even go against her own family? Fresh off an international tour of his critically-acclaimed three-hour epic Counting and Cracking (which included a special sold-out season at Sydney’s Carriageworks), S. Shakthidharan returns to the Belvoir stage with another powerful chapter of South Asian history. Detouring from the grand scale of Counting and Cracking and Shakthidharan’s follow-up show, The Jungle and the Sea, this restrained 90-minute fable is told through the perspectives of four defiant women, each of them shaped by differing values, ideologies, survival and sacrifice.  The Wrong Gods is a work of protest – it’s angry, sad, and deeply unsettled by the relentlessness of capitalism The Wrong Gods imagines the protests surrounding the controversial Narmada Valley dam project. Initiated in the late 1980s, the dam is one of the world’s largest hydropower infrastructure projects. It was intended to supply electricity and drinking water to three Indian states, but its legacy is fraught – thousands of indigenous people and villagers were displaced, ecosystems were irreversibly altered and damaged, and the project remains at the centre of sustained protests. Nirmala (Nadie Kammallaweera, who appeared in both Counting and Cracking and The Jungle and the Sea) a farmer and the head of the...
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  • Drama
  • Sydney
  • 3 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Hold on to your alibis, dear readers. Hot on the heels of the recent national tour of The Mousetrap, another classic from Agatha Christie’s playbook of murder mystery mayhem lands on the stage at Sydney’s Theatre Royal.  *** Time Out Melbourne reviewed And Then There Were None when it played at the Comedy Theatre in February. Read on for that three-star review:   Somewhere off the coast of Devon is a dreary little island with high cliffs, higher tides and no way to escape. It’s Soldier Island: a lovely place to put your feet up, take a dip, meet nine strangers and watch as you all get slowly picked off one-by-one. This is the wickedly thrilling premise of Agatha Christie’s 1939 classic And Then There Were None. A favourite among Christie fans (and Christie herself), it arrives in a production that once again proves that the master of the whodunnit can still thrill us nearly 100 years on. Yet, this revival from director Robyn Nevin – her second of Christie’s following 2023’s The Mousetrap – rests on the laurels of its author too often, offering a passable but ultimately thin restaging that I think might signal the end of the recent resurgence of British classics in our theatres. It’s 1939. Ten people have been invited to Soldier Island under suspicious pretences. They have little in common apart from the skeletons in their closets. For much of the show’s bloated first act, we’re watching this motley crew of potential victims introduce themselves to each other. Christie is...
  • Musicals
  • Haymarket
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Just over a decade since it was last seen in Australia, Annie is back – bursting onto the Capitol Theatre stage filled with optimism, joy, and hope. Director Karen Mortimer revives this quintessential piece of musical theatre with a sentimental production that preserves the charm and flair found in Thomas Meehan’s book. For those living under a rock (mainly me), this Tony Award-winning musical follows the story of 11-year-old Annie, who is growing up in an orphanage in 1930s New York, under the cruel eye of Miss Hannigan. In the midst of the Great Depression, pessimism is all around, but chipper young Annie has the antidote: hope. Encouraging others to believe that “the sun will come out tomorrow”, Annie’s enduringly positive spirit seems to finally pay off, when billionaire Oliver Warbucks chooses to take her in for two weeks over Christmas. Four spirited young performers share the titular role in this production, alongside an alternating cast of child actors. On opening night, Dakota Chanel’s Annie is a ray of sunshine, fully embodying the doe-eyed optimism of the character, balancing warmth and comedy with the more tender and emotional segments. The whole ensemble of “orphans” share an incredible chemistry, which is strongly on display in their performance of ‘It’s The Hard Knock Life’. The stakes are high when it comes to such a well-known and well-loved song, but this ensemble more than meets the challenge with a passionate and committed performance.  Annie is the...
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  • Comedy
  • Dawes Point
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Samuel Beckett’s Winnie, the hapless, half-buried heroine of his 1961 play, Happy Days, is one of those pinnacle roles in theatre. Comparisons to Hamlet are common, but apt. It’s such an actor’s role that it makes sense, arguably with certain caveats, that the actor in question takes up at least one directorial rein. It certainly makes sense to Sydney Theatre Company, who are giving us the legendary Pamela Rabe (Belvoir’s August: Osage County) directed by Pamela Rabe (and Nick Schlieper) in this production. Winnie (Rabe) is immured in a mound of earth up to her waist. She wears what might be a faded ball gown. Harsh light beats down on the dark ground (which looks hand-painted) and a kind of horizontal proscenium structure is reminiscent of a CinemaScope screen or the jagged glow of a flatscreen TV, further heightening the sense of artificiality – or at least, a kind of constructed reality. But Winnie is all too human and real. She fends off the sun’s rays with a broken umbrella, she comments on her station (although we’re never given much context in regards to how she got where we find her), she chats with her laconic husband, Willie (a fantastic and funny physical performance from Markus Hamilton) who occasionally drags himself onto the stage, but rarely into her field of vision. Above all else, she tries to maintain an upbeat attitude, repeatedly declaring this to be yet another “happy day”. Even after the second act arrives, following a dark and ominous interlude...
  • Musicals
  • Redfern
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Ah, the Titanic. An unsinkable cultural icon, the “Ship of Dreams” has appeared in almost as many movies and stage productions as the songs of Canada’s queen of the power ballad, Céline Dion. It’s even got a two-and-a-half-hour (surprisingly serious) movie musical adaptation based on Maury Yeston’s Titanic: the Musical. Although, none can hold a candle to the cultural impact of James Cameron’s 1997 blockbuster – you know, the one with Kate Winslet and Leonardo DiCaprio. So, with nostalgia being such hot property right now, it was only a matter of time before we got the camp-as-hell musical fantasia made-for-and-by-the-gays that is Titanique. Created by Marla Mindelle (who originated the role of Céline Dion – well, as imagined in this show), Constantine Rousouli (who originated the role of Jack) and director Tye Blue (whose countless industry credits include working on the casting team of RuPaul’s Drag Race), Titanique is revisionist history at its best. Loaded with Céline Dion’s greatest bangers, it casts Queen Dion herself (played so wonderfully by cabaret legend Marney McQueen here in Aus) as the narrator of the tragic tale, who continuously places herself at the center of the action – quite literally – much to Jack and Rose’s repeated dismay. It brings the campness of the film to the front, with Stephen Anderson (Mary Poppins) playing Rose’s awful mother Ruth (complete with a bird’s nest headpiece), and Abu Kebe (Choirboy) playing a brilliant, tear-jerking drag parody...
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The colder months are starting the settle in, but Sydney’s huge year of theatre is hot to trot. In a major coup for the Sydney stage, the world tour of Les Miserables The Arena Spectacular has landed from the West End for a strictly limited run, and musical theatre fanatics will not want to miss the chance to weep their way through this one (closes May 11). Meanwhile, the inimitable Pamela Rabe returns to Sydney Theatre Company to tackle one theatre's most challenging roles in Samuel Beckett's Happy Days (May 5 - Jun 15).  Need a laugh? Don't shrug off Sydney Comedy Festival, which is bringing hundreds of hilarious people and funny experiences to the city for its massive 20th anniversary edition (festival closes May 18).  If it’s musical madness you’re after, you don't want to miss the chance to laugh your head off at Titanique. After several extensions, this camp cult-hit parody has officially called a closing date in June (and it definitely won't be shipping off to any other cities!). That’s all just for starters! Read on for our critics' reviews and more top theatrical picks below.

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