A swish Bombay brasserie in the style of the post-colonial 'Irani cafés' of Bombay, London's various branches of Dishoom are filled with retro design features: whirring ceiling fans, low-level lighting and walls adorned with vintage Indian magazine advertising. The main attraction though is the menu, loosely styled on Irani café food with birianis, bhel (crunchy puffed rice with tangy tamarind chutney) and pau bhaji (toasted white bread rolls with a spicy vegetable stew as a filling). It's the iconic breakfast bacon naan however, that pulls us back again and again – and even makes us willing to queue at 10am.