A decade is a long time in restaurant years – especially in Melbourne, land of the fickle diner. So what is it about this high-end Cantonese restaurant that’s kept it kicking strong through over 40 years, multiple recessions, a pandemic, the digital age and a plague of screechers decreeing the death of fine dining?There’s the unwavering attention to detail to start: service at Flower Drum is a carefully choreographed dance, which some of its waiters have been perfecting for 20-plus years. There’s not a second you’re not in someone’s scope from the moment you step into the Market Lane foyer. Hands are shaken. Regulars are greeted by name – they have their own tables and order dishes long gone from the menu. But it’s allowed. So long as executive chef Anthony Lui has the ingredients, he’ll still pull a lemon chicken out of the hat if he’s asked.
The long lunch seems to have fallen by the wayside when it comes to appropriate business conduct. But that doesn't mean that there aren't still plenty of places for a high-rollin' lunchtime outing and pretending to be in an episode of Mad Men.