A neighbourhood of contrasts, Arroios stands out from the other parishes of Lisbon for the multiculturalism of its people and places. Cradle of Amália, the greatest Portuguese fado singer of all time, and home to almost a hundred nationalities, Arroios is the largest parish in central Lisbon, though you can walk across it in half an hour. More than a neighbourhood, it’s a world in itself, and its many impressive kilometres of streets are packed with open-air galleries, restaurants from all corners of the world, public services, cultural and sporting venues… New businesses sprout like mushrooms, living side by side with traditional commerce – if you can’t find it in Arroios, it’s probably coming soon. No wonder our global poll of local experts named it the coolest neighbourhood in the world right now. Here’s where to begin.
If you only do one thing…
Look for the longest queue on Avenida Almirante Reis – it’s the easiest way to find the institution that is Ramiro. Our tip is to hit this renowned, down-to-earth Portuguese restaurant at five in the afternoon: after the lunch rush and before dinner, locals head there for an afternoon snack. Spend an hour dispatching clams, prawns, crabmeat, a plate of ham and a prego (steak sandwich) – and, to make everything better, uma imperial (a small draft beer).
Get off the beaten track
On Regueirão dos Anjos you’ll find Anjos70, one of the city’s busiest cultural centres. Its programme includes matinées, film festivals, dance