In an era of fast-casual poke and high-tech quinoa, Daniel Rose did something new—by doing something old. Borrowing from Gallic dining rooms of years past, particularly long-gone fine-dining great Lutèce, the Chicago-born chef is less concerned with tweaking French classics—the kind of reworkings that won him praise at Spring in Paris—than with cooking French classics outright: sweetbreads spooned with crème de tomate; airy pike quenelles in frothy sauce américaine; and halibut bathed in beurre blanc. There’s no social-media gimmickry, just rich-sauced French food served in a lively room gleaming with chandeliers and gold-trimmed plates. It’s a ballsy move in these clickbaity times—and here, it pays off.
Year 2016 was, in the most elegant terms, fucked, from the losses of pop cultural icons to the entirety of election season. But even in the midst of all that darkness, the year had its shining moments—New York dining, for one, was a particularly lustrous thing in 2016, gifting us a delicious Detroit alternative to New York pizza, a new fine-dining addition to the pantheon of great Indian restaurants and a much-needed dose of comfort-food dishes. Le Coucou to Lilia and everywhere notable in between—these are New York’s best restaurants of the year.
RECOMMENDED: Full guide to the best of 2016