Call me biased, but I reckon NSW is home to some of the world’s best restaurants. From Raes on Wategos to the Hunter Valley’s EXP and Sydney favourites like Quay, Saint Peter and Margaret, the state’s dining scene is hotter than the CBD in January.
There’s one spot on NSW’s laid-back, sandy-footed south coast that’s been on my hit list for years: Rick Stein at Bannisters, a restaurant by British chef, TV star and author Rick Stein, housed in the five-star Bannisters by the Sea. (OK, yes, I’ve also dreamed about diving into that azure infinity pool, too.)
When the world-famous seafood restaurant opened in 2009, it was Stein's first venture outside of the UK. Now, Stein, alongside his Aussie wife Sarah Stein, has 11 venues, including Rick Stein at Bannisters Port Stephens. Excitingly, there’s another at our fingertips, with Rick Stein at Coogee Beach opening inside the beachfront InterContinental Sydney Coogee Beach this December. I thought there was no better time to experience the OG. Safe to say my expectations were high.
After spending the day by the pool and deep in Sally Hepworth’s latest page-turner, we headed to dinner, the gum trees glowing gold in the sunset and the smell of sea salt in the breeze. We were warmly welcomed by the team before kicking things off with a Ginger Fusion – a cooling and balanced cocktail with notes of cucumber, ginger, grapefruit and lime – alongside pristine Merimbula oysters with an eschalot vinegar (which could have done with a touch more sweetness). Chubby, sea-sweet prawns swiped through lightly spiced mustard mayo were delightful, and the Ensenada fish taco with chilli, coriander and chipotle was a fine rendition, packed with crunch, colour and zing.
A stunning plate of sashimi followed: slices of clean-tasting, petal-hued kingfish, buttery salmon and ruby-toned tuna, alongside wakame salad, pickled ginger, wasabi and soy. For mains, we shared a Sri Lankan-style fish curry, heady with cardamom, cloves and curry leaves, sweetened with tomatoes and mango chutney. It’s one of the most delicious curries I’ve ever had – and I may have finger-swiped the bowl (a few times). A bottle of 2024 pinot gris from Orange’s award-winning winemaker Phillip Shaw was crisp, bright and a lovely match.
Sure, the coastal-core dining room feels a tad dated. Some of the seats are better than others. It’s a fine-dining venue with top produce and excellent service, so prices reflect that.
I’d heard Big Things about Rick Stein at Bannisters, but not only did my experience meet expectations, it surpassed them. As someone who eats out for a living, I can honestly say dinner at Rick Stein at Bannisters was one of the most delicious, relaxing and enjoyable meals I’ve had in a long time, with pristine seafood by the sea, served with finesse and holiday-like south coast charm. Worth the hype? You betcha. The best part? I didn’t have to walk far to my room.
Rick Stein at Coogee Beach, I’m ready for you.
Find out more about Rick Stein at Bannisters here.
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