London’s best Spanish restaurants

Smarter and roomier than his tapas bar (José) up the road and more formal than his other joint Lolo, José Pizarro’s self-named Bermondsey flagship artfully combines old Spanish detailing with a stripped-back neighbourhood look. Pizarro is a master when it comes to revitalising traditional flavours and he cooks with immense care and skill: mussels in spicy sauce and coriander, squid stuffed with spicy rice served on a chickpea stew and pickled wild seasonal mushrooms with Fino sauce are typical of the regularly changing line-up. Well-chosen wines fuel the congenial buzz.

Led by Nieves Barragán Mohacho, the visionary chef behind Mayfair’s Sabor, this stylish Spanish outlet is inspired by everything from her Basque childhood to her illustrious London career. An unmissable starter is the quisquillas de cadiz: raw bodied shrimps with crunchy, cooked heads. The Legado sandwich is another must-order, inspired by Nieves’ grandmother: consisting of Swiss chard, cecina (Spanish cured beef) and smoked cheese. Delivered with stellar presentation, service and quality, not to mention style and grace, Nieves’ latest addition to her own legacy is a triumph.

The queues are endless and fans clamour for somewhere to perch at Barrafina’s gleaming L-shaped marble counter, but patience is amply rewarded at this no-bookings tapas star – flawless cooking is a given. Your money might go further in Spain, but who cares when the chefs can dole out dazzlers such as oozing tortillas and milk-fed lamb kidneys to go with picks from a knockout Spanish wine list. Also check out Barrafina’s branches at Dean Street, Drury Lane, King’s Cross and Borough Yards.

Northern Spain is so hot right now and Alta pays tribute via cheesecake and meat. This serene oasis inside the hectic Kingly Court food hall in Soho feels calm and sophisticated. All manner of sharing plates are on offer, with an emphasis on open fire grilling. Try Alta’s ode to arroz meloso, a bed of umami rice and sweet crab meat. It’s surprisingly light and we’re this close to licking the plate clean. For the grand finale, a 35 day aged sirloin with smoked bone marrow. Order it with ratte potatoes, served alongside garlicky mojo verde butter, and sweet, butter-soft leeks dotted with crunchy walnuts.

Copita deals in proper tapas-sized dishes and neatly sidesteps the usual clichés in favour of less familiar ideas – smoked anchovies with pork crackling or truffled goats cheese with almonds and honey, anyone? Drinkers are also encouraged to have several small glasses (copitas) from a well-informed list of Spanish wines and sherries. Such an accomplished offer draws big crowds, and it can get cacophonous – although service is always in tune with the vibe.

This full-throttle Basque grill house is all about the steak. There are three kinds available; black angus, Galician blond and full-blood Wagyu. Order your meat alongside an indulgent Ossau-Iraty cheese-and-black-pepper sauce, mountain of fries and a zingy tomato-and-shallot salad. Starters include a carabinero tartate, Cantabrian anchovies, and an immaculate Croque Ibai; a crunchy, hot sarnie of prawns, boudin noir, Tomme de Brebis cheese and honey. 

Sandwiched between the railway arches near Waterloo station, this long-serving and totally unpretentious tapas joint inhabits the shell of an old boozer – and it still feels like a friendly local rather than a hipster hangout. Much of the wide-ranging menu is gluten-free and all the tapas standards are capably handled, from finger-sized boquerones, moist tortilla and juicy grilled chorizo to saffron rice packed with shrimps, squid and octopus. A true hidden gem.

Tapas fans, prepare to cheer loudly. Sabor, from Barrafina’s one-time leading lady Nieves Barragán Mohacho, is an absolute blast – especially if you bag a spot at the no-bookings ground floor Counter (the bookable El Asador lives upstairs). The line-up of rustic small plates is all-round flawless, from stunning tortilla made with cured sausage to utterly dreamy fruit tartaletas. You’ll love the cooking, but you’ll also love the vibe – eating here is just such huge fun.

With its exposed brickwork, Moorish tiling and a healthy smattering of Spanish-speaking customers, El Ganso (‘the goose’) feels like the real deal – only transported to Broadway Market. The chef hails from Valencia, although he gives traditional tapas a contemporary spin when it comes to presentation: fried octopus might come with smoked paprika, chimichurri and purple potato purée, while chopped pears add a surprise to spicy chorizo in cider. El Ganso also serves an Anglo-Spanish breakfast every day.

Bang next door to its acclaimed big brother Moro, the teensy-weensy orange-toned Morito is a slice of Spanish street life teleported to Clerkenwell. It’s always frantically busy, but perseverance pays dividends – especially if you bag a spot overlooking the kitchen counter. Inventive tapas plates and stonking Spanish regional wines are the stars, but staff are delightful and the whole place is properly buzzy. Morito’s flashy Hackney Road offshoot is a very different kettle of salt cod.

Spawned from José Pizarro’s namesake restaurant further along Bermondsey Street, this tapas bebé has the genuine feel of a rustic Spanish hangout – all plain brick walls, timbers, tiles and stools. There are no great culinary innovations; instead, enjoy fantastically fresh renditions of the classics at easy-to-swallow prices, coupled with fine-quality wines by the glass. You can’t book, but José’s doors-wide-open attitude is bang-on for the neighbourhood.

Alfresco Parrillan is all about DIY tabletop grilling combined with some of the best outdoor seating in Coal Drops Yard. Start off with some cold no-cook starters before getting to grips with the grilled stuff – it’s all based on flawless ingredients ranging from the fabulously fresh (but seriously pricey) red prawns to more affordable Middle White pork collar. If DIY isn’t your bag, you can order a lobster caldereta stew, or always nip off to Barrafina next door. There's another site in Borough Yards, too.

La Tapería’s charm is more homespun than Tooting’s bigger operators: a bar dispenses decent cocktails, but sit near the open kitchen for a glimpse of the chefs working on cool, artistic renditions of the tapas standards and more outré ideas including morcilla scotch eggs and white chocolate and manchego cheesecake.

A tiny Basque enclave in Marylebone, Lurra is the baby sister of Donostia just down the road. Lap up the buzzy atmosphere and smoky aromas as you pick from a menu of rustic-luxe tapas and pintxos inspired by the bars of San Sebastián. Don’t miss daily specials such as spinach croqueta with spring onion aïoli. 

Escocesa is Spanish for Scottish, and that’s a clue to the food at this sleek Stokey tapas joint founded by ex-drummer and record producer Stephen Lironi. The kitchen plunders the best from Caledonia’s waters for a roster of seafood plates, such as grilled octopus with white bean purée and crispy capers, although there are also plenty of land-based faves – think jamón tortilla, patatas bravas or slow-cooked pig’s cheeks with caramelised onions.

Tucked away just off the leafy streets of Green Park, this neat little tapas bar is a perennial favourite with the local Spanish community and Mayfair suits who flock here for a taste of its jamón Ibérico and other old school classics (think tortilla, croquetas, albondigas and so on). The kitchen also knocks out big pans of paella and arroz negro for sharing, along with decent value set menus. Tip: the best seats are at the snazzy bar surrounded by mirrors and Picasso prints – or you can grab a table outside in summer.

The mighty tapas staple of croquetas now has a whole restaurant dedicated to it thanks to Spanish food folk Brindisa. An intimate northern-Spanish bar and miniature dining room on Beak Street, Bar Kroketa is rustic and informal, perfect for a quick bite or a more leisurely glass of Cava Brut Reserva after a long day of trawling around Soho. 

Card-carrying carnivore? You’re in the right place. Lobos (‘wolves’ in Spanish) specialises in prime Ibérico cuts, charcuterie and plates of smoky charred meat - although its tapas also please fans of prawns al ajillo, patatas bravas and classic tortillas. This Soho sibling of the original Lobos Meat & Tapas on Borough High Street is a moodily lit, buzzy affair – and it comes with the warmest of welcomes.

Ember Yard’s USP is its stylish use of the grill – echoing the way things are done in the Basque country. The Ibérico pork ribs and chargrilled octopus with paprika aïoli are standouts from a line-up of Spanish-Italian hits that might run from grilled chicken thigh with parsnip, truffle purée, dates and crispy kale to braised cuttlefish with cannellini beans and tomate fondue. Pick Ember Yard for a winter retreat in the darkness and enjoy the glowing embers of its charcoal grill.

Maresco is a sister spot to Crouch End’s Bar Esteban and Stoke Newington’s Escocesa. Strings of fairy lights twinkle by the trademark blue neon signage and high stools run along the windows; perfect for watching Soho’s beautiful oddballs go by, as well as next to the kitchen; perfect for watching chefs prepare intricate bocadillo de calamar. The food is Spanish, but the ingredients are Scottish. Lovely stuff.