The 20 best things to do in Soho

There are four pubs with this name in Soho. But, if we’re being honest, there’s only one. Sometimes referred to as Norman’s The Coach and Horses, after its legendary and quarrellsome former landlord, this place was once part of the deadly ‘Soho triangle’ of boozers, along with the French House and the Colony Club. Current landlady Ali and her team run a tight ship, impressive when you consider how busy it gets during the after-work rush. A must-visit for anyone after a gratifying and unpretentious dose of the rambunctious atmosphere Soho was once known for. Now with added Monster Munch.

Its cool blue neon lights, front-of-house café and occasional late-night shows may blend it into the Soho landscape, but since taking up residence on Dean Street in 2000 Soho Theatre has made quite a name for itself. Across three studio spaces, it puts on an eclectic line-up of work from some of the biggest names in comedy, spoken word, and cabaret, and hosts at least six different shows a night. If ever there were a place in London to get a year-round taste of the Edinburgh Fringe it's here, with its eclectic programming, late shows and ever-buzzing bar. Just don't expect to find deep-fried haggis on the menu - teas, coffees, and wine are the order of the day at Soho Theatre's chic cafe/bar, which is reliably packed out after 6pm.

Old Soho looms large at Quo Vadis. This elegantly bohemian members’ club heaves with history, despite the fact that its public dining room received a thorough makeover at the start of 2023. The stained glass on the windows has been pared back so that passers-by can now peer in and gaze upon glamorous wine-swilling pals and oyster-slurping folk who look like artists – even if they’re not – feasting on congenial chef Jeremy Lee’s indulgent takes on classic British food. Quo Vadis 2.0 is lighter, brighter and altogether more inviting. 

Chic boutiques fill the streets of Soho, so there are few better places to make a beeline for if you’re thinking about updating your wardrobe. Aries deals in luxury streetwear with an androgynous twist, while the avant-garde offerings at JW Anderson’s flagship store will definitely get you noticed. Dover Street Market houses tons of different designers, including some of the biggest and coolest names in fashion – from Chopova Lowena to Bottega Veneta. Over on Berwick Street, Universal Works takes inspiration from British workwear and traditional tailoring to create some very modern fits.

Soho has long been the heart of London’s queer scene and you’ll still find plenty of great gay bars there today. Compton’s is a prime spot for date night. Halfway To Heaven and Admiral Duncan often boast drag performances, while Circa is the place to go if you’re looking for some like-minded fashionistas. Although the area isn’t short on LGBTQ+-friendly venues, there is currently only one lesbian bar in the neighbourhood – and all of London. She Soho fills the void with comedy, cabaret, karaoke and quiz evenings.

For vinyl heads, Soho is almost too good an area to visit – and even dangerous, some might say. There’s a ton of excellent independent record stores all within walking distance of each other where you can pick up records by artists from all over the musical spectrum. Looking for soul, reggae and dubstep picks? Head to Sounds Of The Universe. Reckless Records is your port for anything from classic drum’n’ bass to jazz, Phonica is home to a great collection of electronic records. If indie, rock and pop are your jam, stop by Sister Ray. Once you’ve stocked up on new wax, visit Third Man Records’ basement, where bands often perform sweaty, raucous gigs (and try and stop yourself spending more money on its shelves too).

Classics don’t come much more élégante than the French House. The pub’s mix of old Soho regulars, hypebeast design dudes, fashion folk and the most eccentric of locals make it one of the best spots in town for striking up absolutely wild chats with fascinating strangers. Expect to see half of the British media in the tiny roped off outside area smoking roll-ups and drinking Cidre Breton. Remember, it only serves halves of beer, so don’t embarrass yourself by asking for anything as déclassé as a pint

Any restaurant where you can say the words ‘Thai’ and ‘barbecue’ in the same breath gets my vote. Kiln is from self-taught chef Ben Chapman – of Smoking Goat fame – and takes its by-the-roadside cooking style to the next level. And yup, his Thai barbecue game is pretty strong. At Kiln, the ground floor is all about two things: cooking or eating. A stainless-steel counter runs its full length. Behind it runs the equally long open kitchen. There’s action and cheffery and drama at every swivel of your stool. 

Opened by the British saxophonist Ronnie Scott in 1959, this legendary Soho institution made its name as the first club to host American jazz musicians in the UK. Since then, its become steeped in music history. Ronnie’s has been the site of many live album recordings by artists including Ella Fitzgerald, Nina Simone, and Jamie Cullum. It’s also welcomed huge names like Amy Winehouse, Stevie Wonder and even Lady Gaga and was the location of Jimi Hendrix’s final public performance in 1970. Decades later, Ronnie Scott’s continues to offer a packed calendar of jazz, soul and blues performers, with at least two shows a night, every night. With its dim lighting and velvet booth-style seats, the venue has that proper old school jazz club feel. There’s nowhere in London quite like it.

Six storeys of nothing but photography: this Soho gallery is heaven for art fans who’ve had enough of paintings and sculptures, and want a bit of reality in their culture. Its programming is forward-thinking, its exhibitions are great, and there’s nowhere else like it in town.

Chances are you’ve probably heard of Rita’s: co-owners Gabriel Pryce and Missy Flynn have been around the block for a decade. We’ve seen Rita’s here, there and everywhere in various guises, from a neighbourhood pop-up in Dalston to the sandwich-centred Bodega Rita’s in Coal Drops Yard. And now? They’ve made themselves at home on a plot of prime real estate in Soho bang opposite Andrew Edmunds. 

This American-inspired eating house for young, fun and welcoming people boasts a banging cocktail selection. Get the New York Sour and sansho pepper tipped Margarita. There’s also an interesting selection of natural, low-intervention wines from eco-friendly producers you’ll rarely find elsewhere.

Bar Termini does two things: coffee and cocktails. Coffee is overseen by Marco Arrigo, head of quality for Illy, who has probably trained more baristas – and trained them rigorously – than anyone else in the UK. Cocktails are supervised by Tony Conigliaro, the alco-alchemist behind 69 Colebrooke Row and Zetter Town House, among others. Whether you’re after an espresso on the way into the office or a post-dinner nightcap, its leisurely day-to-night opening hours make it a perfect place to pop in at any time of day. Our advice? Grab a table by the window, order a few small plates to soak up the booze and settle in for the long haul. 

There aren’t many Soho bars with a less salubrious front of house than the New Evaristo Club (better known as its previous name of Trisha’s, aka ‘The Hideaway’.) Hidden beneath Greek Street and accessed through a dodgy-looking doorway that leads to a seriously scruffy staircase, this subterranean ‘members club’ was referred to as ‘one of the true glories of London’ by Anthony Bourdain. It’s the sort of place you’d imagine someone getting whacked in an episode of The Sopranos, except there was an episode of Emmerdale showing last time we visited. It might take a bit of planning to make it inside – membership application windows are pretty sporadic and they’re a lot stricter on the door policy these days after a few recent licensing issues – but it’s worth the wait for anyone looking to experience the Soho of yore.  

Unassumingly nestled in the heart of Soho, Algerian Coffee Stores has traded from its Old Compton Street site for over 120 years and, remarkably, is still using the original wooden counter, shelving and display case. Unsurprisingly, it is a coffee shop - but it is an institution, too. First opened by a man of Algerian heritage in 1887, now only known by the name of Mr Hassan, it has changed hands in the years since but always kept its identity. The shop window remains packed full of coffee beans, teapots and cafetières, ready to be taken away to a loving home.

Head chef Shuko Oda’s Koya has become every bit as much of a Soho classic as the likes of L’Escargot, Quo Vadis and Andrew Edmunds. With its blond-wood counter, Koya evokes the traditional feel of a Japanese udon-ya, and is as much Tokyo as it is London. Innovative bowls of udon and rice porridge are the major draw.

A warm and rowdy boozer that attracts old timers from nearby Berwick Street Market as well as impressively attired art school types and a lingering 1990s media crowd. The Blue Posts is the plantonic ideal of a Soho pub. A well stocked – and loud – jukebox powers drinkers through the evenings, but it's also great for a quiet afternoon pint with a book. Just make sure you get the correct Blue Posts; there are a handful of similarly named pubs nearby, none of which are a patch on this place.

Bookworms on the hunt for their next read should make Soho their next destination. For starters, there’s the big Foyles, which has a staggering four miles’ worth of shelves, which hold more than 200,000 titles. If, for some reason, that’s not enough for you, Tenderbooks might have what you’re looking for. The shop specialises in subjects including photography and design, and supports independent publications. Still searching? Cecil Court, where Tenderbooks is based, is packed with shops selling tomes old and new, like Goldsboro Books and Alice Through The Looking Glass. In the market for some comics? Gosh! is a veritable goldmine of manga.

This historic Soho café was established in 1949 by Lou and Caterina Polledri, and quickly became a social hub for the Italian community in London. Despite several upgrades to the decor, much of the original fixtures still remain, from the red and white formica to the Gaggia espresso machine and the flooring.

Behind the 1950s green ceramic Soho frontage is Lina Stores, an iconic family-run Italian deli that’s been in business for over half a century. Indeed, Jane Grigson used to buy spaghetti in blue wax paper here years before celebrity chefs coasted the streets on scooters. Besides dried pastas (stored in beautiful wooden crates), there’s a deli counter chock-full of cured meats, hams, salamis, olives, cheeses, marinated artichokes and fresh pastas. Breads are outstanding and filled pastas are some of the best in London; artichoke and truffle or aubergine and scamorza can be recommended highly.

Glitz, glamour and the feminine urge to dangle a mother-of-pearl cigarette holder from your lips while simultaneously making small talk with the ghost of Josephine Baker, Soho’s magnificent Brasserie Zédel might just have it all. One of the grandest dining rooms in town, Zedel’s art deco majesty is welcoming to tourists and locals alike. At this deeply democratic bistro, live jazz, French 75s and snails in garlic and parsley butter go hand-in-hand.