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In the heart of the business area, the Sheung Wan market and cooked food centre caters largely to office workers (as well as the usual crews of retirees). Don’t miss Shui Kee Café 《瑞記咖啡》. This is the place to go for a Hong Kong-style breakfast. That means French toast, a pork-filled sandwich or, the platonic ideal of breakfast in Hong Kong, noodles with luncheon meat and a fried egg. Wash it down with the stall’s specialty: milk tea served in a glass bottle, the old-school way. Wok-and-toss Sheung Wan Tung Kee《上環棟記》is also a stall not to miss, if you want more than just toast.