Ever since Alice fell down the rabbit hole, people have cottoned on to the fact that stepping into an entirely new world can be pretty damn fun – and yes, pleasurable. Stressed at work? Relationship woes? In the midst of an existential crisis? Good news: as soon as you see that purple eye on Wilson Street, you can leave your worries at the door before descending the stairs into a basement bar where hedonism is not only welcome, but encouraged.
Pleasure Club is remarkable for a few reasons, including it’s the first bar in Newtown in more than 100 years to be granted approval to trade until 4am seven days a week. Secondly, there are free live performances every night, from rock and blues to psychedelic tunes. That’s because it's owned by the Odd Culture Group – the same team behind Odd Culture Newtown, The Duke of Enmore and Time Out favourite, The Old Fitz. They are well-versed in the art of cutting red tape, and have long been champions of Sydney’s live music scene. Pleasure Club’s line-up is curated by entertainment manager Sabrina Medcalf, who spent more than five years running Frankie’s Pizza, so if there’s anyone who knows about having a good time, it’s her.
A former X-rated video shop, the spacious subterranean bar can fit around 120 punters. And while I have been for a beer when it’s been quieter early on in the night, Pleasure Club really kicks into gear when the place is packed – which it is the second time I visit, late on a Friday night. (OK, lateish, I am nearly 30.) The crowd is a mash-up of girlfriends on the town, young, long-haired dudes, and 40-somethings with, well, less hair. On the stage is Chilean-American multi-instrumentalist Alain Johannes, and everyone is digging him, including me.
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The team has taken a leaf out of Prince’s book in that Pleasure Club is wearing purple – complemented by twinkling disco balls and carpet featuring stars, moons and hearts. Vintage lights, a 1950's jukebox and a pool table add to its charm. If you’re with a group, you can take a seat in a booth, or there are tables for two if locking eyes is more your thing. The space is anchored by an impressive-looking wooden horseshoe bar, which leads us to the next important thing: the booze.
The team has brought on some expert mixers and shakers for all things drinks, including Sam Kirk from Jacksons on George and Matt Whiley of the now-closed Re. The duo has come up with wild and wacky creations, and for the first iteration, they have gone hard on nostalgia as well as wack. There’s a Mr. Whippy, based on your favourite afternoon treat – made with Mapo Gelato plain milk liqueur, white chocolate, strawberry gum, cinnamon myrtle and sparkling wine. And, for the brave, Cough Drops, with tequila, mezcal, Cointreau, eucalyptus, agave and fresh lime.
Tonight, Jake Down, who was recently crowned Australia’s Best Bartender, is on duty, so spirits are high. I begin with the Cherry Ripe, a riff on the classic chocolate bar. It’s smooth, fruit-forward and well-balanced, with rum, cherry, dark chocolate, coconut – and Davidson’s plum to add a hint of tartness. My date goes for Cheez TV, based on the Aussie cartoon show from the '90s. Flavoured with banana, white and dark chocolate and Coco Pops, it tastes like a kid’s dessert, though thankfully bourbon brings it back into 18+ territory.
I can’t not order the Vegemite cocktail. It arrives in a Martini glass and looks like one too, save for the brown dusting on top. I close my eyes and breathe in deeply and it really smells like butter and Vegemite on toast, cosy mornings and my childhood. I take a sip, and it’s more potent than toast, thanks to vodka and Lillet. And while it’s a fine rendition of a Vegemite Martini, I think I still prefer to eat it.
We save the best for last: the Passion Pop, a grown-up take on the cheap stuff we used to drink as teenagers (sorry, mum). It’s bright and fresh thanks to yuzushu and lemon myrtle, with a lovely sweetness from passionfruit and passionfruit marigold (a native Australian leaf). Fun, fruity and flirty, it tastes like a Frosty Fruit, and it’s my kind of drink.
Beyond cocktails, there are also local beers, natural vino and a large spirits selection. This isn’t the place to come for dinner, though there are a couple of hot dogs on offer (including a vegan one) if you’re hungry. I like how they are sticking to what they know – drinks and good times – instead of trying to be everything to everyone. Plus, you’ve got enough killer eats down the road.
It’s true Sydney still has some uphill battles to conquer when it comes to our nightlife, but with new venues like Pleasure Club, The Caterpillar Club, Centro 86 and The Trocadero Room, I feel hopeful we’re on the right track. And I reckon the city is better off because it's here.
Sure, things can get a little bit wild at the club, and I’m not just talking about the Chicken Parm cocktail. But I reckon often the best experiences in life are. So, next time your mate says there’s nothing fun happening in Sydney at night, show them this, chuck on some sneakers and come on down for a pleasurable night indeed. Or if you're just wanting to escape reality for a night, you can do that here, too.
✍️ Time Out Sydney never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
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