In 2020—after years spent working in award-winning kitchens across the country—chef Tony Quartaro reached out to a few neighbors in Beverly to see whether they’d be interested in trying his homemade pasta sauce. Word spread fast, and pretty soon so many friends, family and coworkers were clamoring for a taste that Quartaro decided to open Gemma Foods, a West Town storefront offering fresh, hand-crafted pasta dishes for pickup and delivery. Start with an order of fan favorite canestri alla vodka—the elbow-shaped pasta’s ridges and hollow center are perfect for scooping up every last bit of creamy vodka sauce.