May 2019: We’ve added Three Cranes in the City, the rebooted gastropub from Francophile chef Henry Harris (who also helped relaunch The Coach in Clerkenwell and The Hero of Maida in W9). And in Soho, the weeny dining room Upstairs at The French House is once again turning heads thanks to the arrival of chef Neil Borthwick (ex-Merchants Tavern in Shoreditch).
London is the gastropub capital of the world and we’ve eaten our way through the lot and rounded up the very best. These are boozers that can compete with restaurants in the culinary stakes – they just happen to come with cracking Victorian buildings, and fires, and dogs (mostly). So whether you’re after fish and chips, or a roast, or an oxtail ragù, you’ve come to the right place. Because food tastes better with bags of atmos. Fact.