Sheung Wan: Ultimate Guide

Start your Sheung Wan culinary adventure at Queen's Road Cooked Food Market, which houses several stalls and has become a local institution for cheap, cheerful, but quality eats. Try the famous ABC Kitchen stall for western food and neighbouring Chautari for hearty Indian.  

Yardbird specialises in creating Japanese-style yakitori skewers using every part of a chicken. Show up early, sink a beer while you're waiting for a table, then try the liver mousse, sweet corn tempura, and duck fried rice. 

A little further afield, Chachawan brings the fiery flavours of Thailand's northeastern Issan province to Sheung wan with eye watering larps and som tums. Put out the flames with the classic mango sticky rice.

Photograph: Courtesy Chachawan

Adding southern French flair to the district, Nissa la Bella is an easy, breezy spot – grab a glass of wine and the Daube Niçoise, and you could almost fool yourself into thinking you're on holiday on the French Riviera. 

Ramato I Photograph: TA

A newcomer to Sheung Wan, Ramato is a neighbourhood joint focusing on traditional Italian fare served family-style. Indulge in hearty southern Italian dishes and pair them with an extensive selection of Italian wines. Head here during the weekend and enjoy their filling brunch menu ($448 per guest) with boozy free-flow options (+$320 per guest). Just next door is chef Vicky Lau’s two Michelin-starred restaurant Tate Dining Room, an upscale dining destination offering seasonal tasting menus with an avant-garde take on Chinese cuisine with a French twist. Another must-try is its sister venue, the newly opened French-Chinese restaurant Mora located on Upper Lascar Row. Explore dishes featuring soy-based ingredients in a la carte and set lunch and dinner menus.

↑ Back to top

Sheung Wan is home to a dizzying array of coffee shops, from big brand chains to tiny boutique spots and delicious Aussie-style joints – throw a stone, and you'll find somewhere to get your caffeine fix. Proper drinking dens are also not hard to find. The area is home to some of Asia's best bars that'll quench your thirst after-hours. 

Recently named Asia's best bar for 2022, Coa is a mezcal-focused bar with knowledgeable staff whipping up heady concoctions driven by mezcal, tequila, and raicilla. Across Coa is Whisky & Words, another bar on the steps of Shin Hing Street made for whisky lovers. On Gough Street, you'll find the newly opened Bianco & Rosso, the first house of vermouth in Hong Kong, serving a wide selection of vermouths, fortified wines, amaro, and a cocktail menu with vermouth highballs, spritzers, and seasonal cocktails. 

Bianco & Rosso I Photograph: TA

If wine is what you're after, Corks Wine & Bar on Hollywood Road stocks a wide selection of French wines, all sourced from small, independent, family-owned local wineries.  

One of the originators of boutique cafes in Hong Kong, The Cupping Room, is a Sheung Wan stalwart serving Melbourne-style coffees, brunch plates, and snacks. Nearby, you'll find Barista Jam, which boasts an incredible range of brews – and signature drip coffee – and Kaffeine, which whips up light lunches and sweet treats along its coffee.

Looking to set up an office for the day? Homegrown brand Elephant Grounds has its 7,000sqft flagship in Sheung Wan, so grab a table and enjoy the free wifi while you sip on barista-made coffee, freshly-baked pastries, and all-day meals.

↑ Back to top

Wander around Hollywood Road, and you'll find a plethora of art galleries, curios shops, and boutiques to tempt you to part with your cash.

Upper Lascar Row I Photograph: TA

Begin your Sheung Wan shopping on Upper Lascar Row, better known as Cat Street. This al fresco marketplace is a treasure trove of tchotchke. Stalls spill into the street, selling everything from jade rollers and vintage magazines to Ming Dynasty antiques and Cultural Revolution memorabilia. As you browse, you can stop in at places like Blue Supreme and Halfway Coffee for sustenance. 

Offering a bit of everything, #Hapi is a sprawling lifestyle store that stocks a bit of everything. There's all manner of home decor and tableware, exquisite skincare and nifty gadgets, and even flowers flown in fresh from the Netherlands. There's also an onsite bistro if you need a pick-me-up.

Take a breather at The Floristry, a gorgeous flower shop where you can pick up seasonal bouquets, marvel at the floral installations in the shop's Meadow Room, and sip artisanal coffees as you browse. 

Select 18 I Photograph: TA

A true hidden gem, Select 18 is a throwback to old Hong Kong, stocked with all sorts of vintage memorabilia that recall the city's colonial era. If you're after vintage Hong Kong posters, collect old-school gadgets, or enjoy retro knick-knacks, you'll spend hours here.

For more independent boutiques, head to the vibrant street Tai Ping Shan, where you'll find crystal shop Nelles Gemmes, street style apparel shop Juice The Box, bookstore Mount Zero, and tea specialist Yuan Yuan Tang. 

↑ Back to top

From hip art galleries to historic landmarks, Sheung Wan offers plenty of attractions to keep you busy. Set aside a full day to explore all the offerings. 

Man Mo Temple I Photograph: Shutterstock

A stalwart of the Sheung Wan district, Man Mo Temple is a mid-19th century Grade I historic building and national monument. Dedicated to the Chinese God of Literature and God of War, it still attracts adherents to worship under its ornate green roof and creates a truly evocative atmosphere overlaid with a heavy cloud of incense created by the canopy of coils and lanterns that lace the roof. 

Yes, it's a little touristy, but if you haven't been to the Western Market, it's worth a visit. The red-brick Edwardian building is filled with shops selling traditional arts and crafts and Chinoiserie fabrics.

Need to relax? Head for The Chaless Wellness and Beauty, and indulge in seriously relaxing massages and treatments that include non-invasive facials, massages, and nails and waxing services. 

The Chaless Wellness and Beauty I Photograph: TA

Amateur historians shouldn't miss the Liang Yi Museum, a four-storey structure on Hollywood Road that boasts a collection of Ming and Qing Dynasty furniture. Established in the 1980s, the museum now has over 400 pieces in the collection, including an array of exquisite clutches, compacts, and powder boxes created by the likes of Cartier, Boucheron, and Van Cleef & Arpels. 

Looking to add to your art collection? Contemporary by Angela Li is one of Hong Kong's most well-known galleries for contemporary Chinese art and represents artists such as Chen Wenling, Lo Hongbo, and Shi Jindian. Down the road, Over the Influence showcases international contemporary art across various media and works with artists such as Jerkface and Nobuyoshi Araki.

↑ Back to top

There are hotels aplenty in Sheung Wan, including big-name budget options like Ibis. But, there are several chic boutique options, too. Creatives will want to opt for The Sheung Wan by Ovolo, a popular spot that blends industrial design with urban flair and artistic nous. Stop by the hotel's Mexican eatery, Te Quiero Mucho, to gorge on tacos and guacamole. Got the pooch in tow? Check into The Figo, a fun boutique property where four-legged friends are welcomed with treats, afternoon tea, and even a dedicated pool. 

↑ Back to top