Sheung Wan Yau Kee Hop tong lau
Photograph: Joshua Lin
Photograph: Joshua Lin

Sheung Wan: The Ultimate Guide

Dining, art, coffee, and shopping – Sheung Wan has a little of everything, and these are the best things to check out in the area

Catharina Cheung
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Sheung Wan is one of our favourite neighbourhoods in Hong Kong – and we’re not just saying that because we’re based here. There are plenty of great eateries and cafés, artsy spots to check out, and hip nooks and crannies to explore, but it also has a historic heart and an unfailingly Hong Kong personality at the heart of it all. Here are the best things to eat, drink, do, and see in Sheung Wan.

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EAT / DRINK / SHOP / THINGS TO DO / STAY 

What is Sheung Wan known for?
A mash-up of old and new. This is the only place in Hong Kong where you’ll find traditional coffin stores, historic temples, and dried seafood stalls next to contemporary art galleries, chic boutiques, and gourmet restaurants. 

Why do the locals love it?
How many reasons do you need? There’s the easy proximity to Central, the juxtaposition of old Hong Kong and its modern trappings, a smorgasbord of drinking and dining options, and the feeling that it’s got almost all the best parts of Hong Kong crammed into one convenient area.

How do I get to Sheung Wan? 
Transport options abound for Sheung Wan. There’s the Sheung Wan MTR station with numerous exits and a multitude of buses that ply their routes along Queen’s Road West and Des Voeux Road West. Trams run through the area, too – most west-bound routes will terminate at Western Market or carry on through to Kennedy Town. 

Map of Sheung Wan

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Where to eat in Sheung Wan

  • Chinese
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

National pride and Old World Hong Kong are what The Chairman restaurant is all about. The well-edited menu was refreshed in 2022, and is considered brief by the standards of Cantonese restaurants, but boy, is it worth your money. Along with new creations, the restaurant's renowned signature dishes are still being served, including camphor-wood-smoked goose and steamed fresh flowery crab with aged Shaoxing wine served with flat rice noodles. The Chairman is notoriously one of the most difficult restaurants to secure a table at, so book months in advance!

  • Chinese
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

Chef-owner Vicky Cheng’s second venture is located just below his Michelin-starred restaurant VEA. At Wing, enjoy a tasting menu featuring Chinese classics reimagined with dishes that cover the eight major regional cuisines while combining Western culinary techniques. Again, this is one of the toughest tables to book in Hong Kong, but do give it your best shot as the wait will be worthwhile.

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  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

European techniques and Asian flavours fluidly ebb and flow in Whey, thanks to Singaporean chef Barry Quek and his experience across Singapore, Belgium, Melbourne, London, and Hong Kong. Chef Quek cleverly layers ingredients, textures and flavours in triumphant combos and we can’t get enough of his insanely good pork dish that’s inspired by the Singaporean classic bak kut teh, as well as his take on Hainese chicken rice.

  • Central

Solstice is a group of three unique dining experiences in one building, but our favourite is Sol. Their exquisitely executed yet unpretentious menu is the gift that keeps on giving, from the amuse-bouche all the way down to the petit fours. Expect innovative flavours that look Western in presentation, retain a distinctly Korean soul, and taste deeply comforting.

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  • Japanese
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

The izakaya-inflected Censu itself is not an izakaya and offers a more food-focused and delicately refined menu that rotates a series of specials to showcase the best of the season. If you want refined Japanese flavours in a comforting setting, Censu is a great choice.

  • French
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

Get a taste of Paris at Jean-Pierre, a swanky French bistro on Bridges Street. Expect to enjoy French fare like steak tartare, onion soup, and beef bourguignon, as well as re-imagined classics like poulet de Simone – the restaurant’s take on poulet rôti. Don’t forget to leave room for desserts like profiteroles, baba au rhum, and crêpes suzette. The bar menu also features snacks like croque monsieurs, Pierre Koffman frites, and the signature JP burger, limited to just 10 portions per day. 

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  • Mediterranean
  • Sheung Wan

Right next door to Jean-Pierre, Salon de Refusés is an intimate eatery that transforms premium seafood sourced daily from Ap Lei Chau’s fish market into delectable dishes – so expect to be transported to southern France and northern Italy. Order vibrant plates of crudo, like bluefin tuna carpaccio with confit tomatoes and olives, or indulge in flavourful mains such as Hokkaido scallops seared to golden perfection and topped with Sicilian pistachios.

  • French
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

Feuille offers a multi-course menu inspired by the growth and parts of a plant, from seeds to roots, stems to flowers and leaves, while staying true to the refined traditions of French cuisine. The delicate dishes feature seasonal vegetables, meat, and seafood sourced ethically and sustainably, and from Hong Kong sources where possible.

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  • Norwegian
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

Embla is a contemporary Nordic restaurant with a seasonally driven menu. From their indulgent Gubbröra bread dip and bite-sized Nordic snacks, to aged duck with spring carrots, orange, and sea buckthorn sauce, this eatery offers culinary delights. They’ve also stocked an extensive range of Nordic spirits not found elsewhere in the city.

  • French
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

Upscale yet relaxing, the food at Tate is an avant-garde take on Chinese cuisine with a French twist. Dine here for a multi-course menu that appeals as much to the sophisticate as it does to the adventurous eater. Let’s just leave this here: lavender perfumed pigeon with Chinese cabbage roll and Sichuan pigeon jus. 

Where to drink in Sheung Wan

  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

Some may say Bar Leone is in Central, but we think its location on Bridges Street leans more into Sheung Wan. Either way, this cosy Italian-themed bar founded by award-winning mixologist Lorenzo Antinori keeps things simple with its laid-back and minimal approach to cocktails. It is currently sitting pretty as the second best bar in the world, so queues for Bar Leone start early. Don’t miss out on their filthy martini, delectable mortadella focaccia, and famous smoked olives.

  • Cocktail bars
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

The little sister to Hong Kong’s famous Bar Leone, Montana is the brainchild of Lorenzo Antinori and Simone Caporale (who founded Barcelona’s acclaimed Sips). Montana takes inspiration from the golden age of Cuba, where the pours were long, the beats fluid, and the atmosphere alive. Come here for fantastically well-balanced drinks like daiquiris that follow the very original Cuban recipe, though our favourite has got to be the Café Havana, their take on an espresso martini topped with banana cream.

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  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

Founded by cocktail bar veteran Jay Khan, Coa is a Mexican-inspired bar that specialises in all things agave and its often misunderstood spirit products like mezcal, tequila, raicilla, bacanora, and more. There’s nothing like a tequila cocktail to mentally transport you to South America, and Coa’s 41-page agave menu will definitely do that. It has also long been on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, and additionally topped the Asia’s 50 Best Bar rankings for three years in a row since 2021.

  • Cocktail bars
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

Sitting right across the road from Coa, Whisky & Words is a narrow, high-ceilinged space that makes sampling whiskies accessible instead of pretentious. There’s not a hint of leather, dark wood, or jazz muzak to be found here – just balanced cocktails, a library-themed interior, and a lo-fi hip-hop playlist that lends to its chill vibe.

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  • Sheung Wan

Bianco & Rosso is the first house of vermouth in Hong Kong. On the menu, expect a wide selection of vermouths, fortified wines, spritz, amaro, and bitters, and a cocktail menu with vermouth highballs, spritzers, and seasonal cocktails. Indulge in refreshing drinks and dishes with European flavours crafted by head chef Ban Chee Min (formerly of La Petite Maison Dubai and Miami).  

  • Wine bars
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

This friendly wine den brings cheer to an otherwise uninspired corner of Hollywood Road. You’ll often see customers spilling out onto the public seating area outside due to the bar’s intimate size, but we rather think this is the best way to enjoy a glass or two of Corks’ selection of French wines. Most of their bottles are from independent, family-owned local wineries, so indulging basically means you’re doing your part to support small businesses.

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  • Cafés
  • Sheung Wan

This charming Scandinavian café offers a delightful all-day menu, featuring small-batch cakes and expertly brewed coffee. Must-try items here include the classic cinnamon and cardamom bun, as well as the indulgent breakfast plate with authentically Nordic accoutrements like Jarlsberg cheese and homemade lingonberry jam. As evening falls, Veneer transforms into a casual wine bar and offers a curated selection of natural wines. Pair your glasses with small plates like savoury goat’s cheese cheesecake or dates wrapped in prosciutto, and you’ve got a perfect combo to end the day with.

  • Cafés
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

Best known for serving their coffee in vintage Hong Kong porcelain cups – their takeaway paper cups also features the porcelain patterns – Halfway Coffee is a small coffee joint appropriately tucked away near all the antique shops in Upper Lascar Row. They have all the classic coffee options and a wide selection of tea, but we’d also recommend trying the Okinawa black sugar milk for something a little different. Even if not for the coffee, the Instagram shot is well-worth the trip. 

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  • Cafés
  • Sheung Wan

This Korean-style cafe from the people behind Busan Night, Jeonpo Meat Shop, and Pecorino has recently taken over a two-storey shopfront on Queen’s Road West. The industrial vibes of the space are softened by intentional, retro decor such as sky-blue tiles outside the front, mismatched furniture pieces that look like they were plucked from vintage stores, and quirky but well-designed silverware. We love their Kactus Coffee, which only comes iced and topped with a slightly salty hand-whipped cream.

  • Cafés
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

There are several branches of this popular cafe across Hong Kong, but their Hollywood Road location is our favourite, with a 7,000sq ft space housing an in-house bakery kitchen, roastery room, and outdoor seatings that can accommodate pets. Satisfy your caffeine fix with their signature brews, dig in to their freshly baked offerings, and pet some dogs that are always hanging out with their owners here. 

Where to shop in Sheung Wan

  • Attractions
  • Sheung Wan

Upper Lascar Row is a quaint outdoor street market, also known as Cat Street, which is popular for its enticing antique shopping. It has more than 100 years of history and the shops here sell everything from delicate porcelain, Buddha sculptures, Maoist memorabilia, Ming dynasty ceramic horsemen, to old movie posters. 

  • Shopping
  • Vintage shops
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

Random yet full of surprises, Select 18 is one of Hong Kong’s best vintage dens, where you can sift through a range of olde tyme knick-knacks, furniture, and jewellery. If you’re lucky, you may even come across some thrifty designer finds. With its carefully selected assortment of clothing and shoes, you never know what you might find here.

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  • Shopping
  • Bookshops
  • Sheung Wan

A hidden gem for bibliophiles, Mount Zero Books offers a tranquil and cosy space for bookworms to dive into their favourite books or discover a new one. The shop specialises in local and Taiwanese titles with a small selection of English books available, and frequently hosts events so have a look on their socials to see what’s happening.

  • Shopping
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

Learn about the art of brewing and drinking tea at tea specialist Yuan Yuan Tang, which specialises in aged Pu’er tea and stocks aged teas ranging from 25, 40, and even up to 70 years old. For a deeper dive, join their tea workshops that can host two to 10 people. Along with various kinds of tea, they also sell ceramics and tea-making accessories. 

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  • Shopping
  • Sheung Wan

This iconic neighbourhood homeware shop is a treasure trove of household goods from a time gone by. A dwindling sight in Hong Kong, Chu Wing Kee is a place where you can find stacks of old-school crockery and teapots, bamboo baskets dangling from the ceiling, and feather dusters and kerosene stoves tucked away in corners. Forget mass-produced modern items and opt for these classic and affordable Hong Kong products, which also make for great souvenirs.

  • Cafés
  • Sheung Wan

Be sure to pop into Goose’ Chocolate, a café decorated with mid-century retro vibes. Like its name suggests, Goose’ Chocolate specialises in delightful creations such as single-origin puddings, mousse, and hot chocolate, all of which feature Tanzanian cocoa that’s roasted in-house. Not a chocoholic? Don’t worry – they’ve also got savoury dishes like their Goose’ breakfast to keep you satisfied.

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  • Shopping
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

With a striking orange storefront and a Moroccan-style design, it’s hard to miss this eye-catching store on the quiet corner of Tung Street and Tai Ping Shan. Nelles Gemmes showcases a variety of crystals, stones, and accessories, including incense sticks and sage smudge sticks. Crystal collectors can buy all kinds of healing stones and crystals like quartz, amethyst, citrine, pyrite, amazonite, and more, in various shapes and sizes.  

What to do and see in Sheung Wan

  • Things to do
  • Sheung Wan

Located close to the many antique stores that dot Hollywood Road and Cat Street, the Man Mo Temple is a declared national monument and is said to have been built between 1847 and 1862 by wealthy Chinese merchants. A place of worship dedicated primarily to Man Cheong (god of literature) and Mo Tai (god of martial arts), the temple compound offers a heavily clouded atmosphere that’s a world away from the bustle of Hong Kong racing past outside. 

  • Attractions
  • Sheung Wan

One of the oldest structures in Sheung Wan and a Hong Kong landmark, the iconic red-brick Western Market was renovated in 1991 and revamped into a shopping complex. It used to house stores for fabrics, textiles, and arts and craft products, though the venue is now closed for refurbishment. That doesn’t mean you can’t stop by to admire the Edwardian-style architecture though – it’s one of the last remaining in Hong Kong. 

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  • Attractions
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

A four-storey private museum on Hollywood Road, Liang Yi Museum is all about design, craftsmanship, and heritage. Home to impressive collections of Chinese antique furniture from the Ming and Qing dynasties, as well as a premier collection of historic pieces that tell the bygone era of Europe, this is the place where you’ll find ornate relics and niche acquisitions of items like Japanese tobacco pipes from the 17th century to rare Persian art and ceramics. 

  • Things to do
  • Sheung Wan
  • Recommended

This park on the top of Possession Street marks the spot where the British navy first set foot in Hong Kong and planted a Union Jack declaring our city as a colony. Nestled in between residential buildings, it’s now a public park with traditional Chinese architecture such as a gateway with bright red pillars and green tiles, moon gates, a pagoda surrounded by a pond that’s home to a frankly astounding number of turtles.

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Street art

There are plenty of murals, graffiti, and street art dotted around Sheung Wan, so keep an eye out for pops of colour that jump out for a flashy surprise every now and again. The area of Tai Ping Shan contains the most pieces in a small area, but there are also lots to find along Hollywood Road – just peek down the side roads as you make your way along.

Here’s our full guide to some of the best street art in Hong Kong.

Where to stay in Sheung Wan

  • Hotels
  • Sheung Wan

The Sheung Wan by Ovolo features rooms with free WiFi, private and shared room options, a 24-hour gym, co-working space, and a Mexican tapas eatery and bar, Te Quiero Mucho. Air-conditioned private guestrooms are equipped with a flat-screen TV with cable channels and Apple TV. The hotel is just a three-minute walk from Sheung Wan MTR station, a flight of stairs away from the buzzy Gough Street, and under 10 minutes away from the bar area of Soho. 

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  • Hotels
  • Sheung Wan

This boutique property features a warm and natural palette, along with textured hues and a modern but chic style. The hotel facilities include a fitness centre and mini theatre, while all guest rooms offer air-conditioning, free WiFi, a minibar, a personal safe, and a flat-screen TV. 

  • Things to do
  • Sheung Wan

Sitting on the boundary of Central and Sheung Wan, Sleeep is a capsule hotel that offers sleeping pods in a functional yet well-designed space. They originally created these pods for office workers to catch a snooze during the day, but have since expanded their offerings to include longer stays for travellers too. 

Discover more neighbourhood gems

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