Where to eat
Start your Sheung Wan culinary adventure at Queen's Road Cooked Food Market, which houses several stalls and has become a local institution for cheap, cheerful, but quality eats. Try the famous ABC Kitchen stall for western food and neighbouring Chautari for hearty Indian.
Yardbird specialises in creating Japanese-style yakitori skewers using every part of a chicken. Show up early, sink a beer while you're waiting for a table, then try the liver mousse, sweet corn tempura, and duck fried rice.
A little further afield, Chachawan brings the fiery flavours of Thailand's northeastern Issan province to Sheung wan with eye watering larps and som tums. Put out the flames with the classic mango sticky rice.
Photograph: Courtesy Chachawan
Adding southern French flair to the district, Nissa la Bella is an easy, breezy spot – grab a glass of wine and the Daube Niçoise, and you could almost fool yourself into thinking you're on holiday on the French Riviera.
Ramato I Photograph: TA
A newcomer to Sheung Wan, Ramato is a neighbourhood joint focusing on traditional Italian fare served family-style. Indulge in hearty southern Italian dishes and pair them with an extensive selection of Italian wines. Head here during the weekend and enjoy their filling brunch menu ($448 per guest) with boozy free-flow options (+$320 per guest). Just next door is chef Vicky Lau’s two Michelin-starred restaurant Tate Dining Room, an upscale dining destination offering seasonal tasting menus with an avant-garde take on Chinese cuisine with a French twist. Another must-try is its sister venue, the newly opened French-Chinese restaurant Mora located on Upper Lascar Row. Explore dishes featuring soy-based ingredients in a la carte and set lunch and dinner menus.