Wan Chai: The Ultimate Guide

Take the lift right to the top floor of Wooloomooloo and, after a small flight of stairs, you’ll reach the restaurant's open-air terrace. The harbour view is partially obscured by other highrises but it’s still breathtaking. You can see out the other way over Happy Valley Racecourse and the hills beyond. The location, right in the heart of the neighbourhood, gives you the vantage point of the daily hustle and bustle in Wan Chai.

Not for the fainthearted, Ophelia is one of Hong Kong’s most outrageous bars. From the live mermaids suspended above the bar to the drag shows and much more in between... it’s better if you find out for yourself – you’ve been warned.

Situated on Ship Street, arguably Wan Chai’s coolest street, 22 Ships delivers a boundlessly creative tapas menu. Established by chef Jason Atherton, the team uses modern touches – foams, gels and novel flavour combos – to update classic small plates. Stop by here for brunch and enjoy the free-flow beer offers over the weekend.

With intelligent, innovative and even humorous plates, ‘Demon Chef’ Alvin Leung’s three-Michelin star masterpiece is a must-try if you have the budget (it’s one of the pricier restaurants on this list). Rather than the 10-a-penny east-meets-west fare we’re so used to, Bo Innovation offers a refreshing fusion of traditional and modern Chinese ideas. A top spot for a special occasion.

At Brass Spoon, diners can take a seat at the communal marble table, pop on a disposable apron and dig into MSG-free pho with, you guessed it, a brass spoon. Tick your choice (or choices) of beef and opt for sides like steamed rice rolls on the ramen bar-style menu. The raw and cooked beef noodle pho comes with generous helpings of herbs and lime, as well as satisfyingly thick, custom-made noodles.

Nestled down the Swatow Street cul-de-sac, the open front, semi-alfresco setting of Bread & Beast emits a relaxed, breezy ambience, and invites diners to tuck into freshly-made sandwiches with hearty fillings. The signature sammie is no doubt the Ngau Lam Wich ($88), which borrows its flavour profile from beef brisket noodles and comes served in a French baguette. There are other meaty options like Japanese chicken curry and char siu to pick from. Don’t forget to order sides including the Lennon fries, which come with okonomiyaki sauce and an onsen egg. 

Set up in homage to traditional cha chaan tengs – as well as Cantopop singers and movie stars – Capital Café serves up excellent renditions of CCT greatest hits, including scrambled egg on thick buttery toast, hot milk tea and HK-style french toast. The restaurant is typically cramped and hectic, but with friendlier service than Australian Dairy Company on the other side of the harbour. The set menu costs $40 and will fill you up for the rest of your day exploring the neighbourhood.

This unassuming shop is tucked away on Thomson Road – a street full of hardware shops. The signature buns are prepared fresh and are filled with rich pork bone broth and topped with sliced spring onions. The Shanghainese soup dumplings are available with various fillings, as well as sauces to dip into. Just be careful to let the goodies cool slightly before you bite into them, so as to not burn your mouth.

A venture launched by the dynamic duo behind 22 Ships, Ham & Sherry is the perfect place to dive into a full tapas meal accompanied by a tasty sherry – which is considered a natural pair with Iberico ham, hence the name. Contemporary Catalonian blue and white tiles line the interior and exterior of the bar, making a cool photo backdrop as you wait for rustic Spanish dishes and sharing plates arrive at your table from the open kitchen.

Serving some of the finest char siu rice in the territory at rock bottom prices, Joy Hing is a must for authentic Cantonese roasted meats. The barbecued pork is so good there’s even a Facebook group dedicated to the humble appreciation of the dish. The tiny shop fills up quickly so try to arrive early. Otherwise, do as many locals do and order your meats to go.

One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town, Le Garcon Saigon is headed by Aussie-Viet chef Bao La. Bao takes traditional ideas and techniques – usually involving cooking over charcoal – and updates them with modern twists. His mission is to show off the diversity of Vietnamese food – without a bowl of pho in sight. Instead, you can enjoy smoky meat and fish dishes served with mountains of fresh herbs and fully-flavoured sauces. Be sure to wash all of these down with a Saigon beer or two.

Housed in a magnificent heritage building transformed from a former pawn shop, The Pawn maintains its colonial charm while serving refined modern British fare courtesy of head chef Tom Aikens. Surrounded by modern chic furnishings, diners can tuck into traditional and modern dishes at the ’kitchen’ or head over to the Botanicals Bar, which looks out onto Johnston Road below.

Going beyond stereotypical Italian fare, Pirata’s homely family-style dishes are the perfect comfort food. Spread out across two sky-high floors, the industrial rustic interiors will have you feeling like you’re dining in a New York penthouse. The dishes here are built to share with price tags that won’t break the bank. Have a go at the MMM (My Mama’s Meatballs), tagliatelle with black truffle, and roasted suckling pig with apple sauce.