What Hong Kong’s dining scene will look like in 2024

When Hong Kong opened the borders in February, tourists from countries all over the world visited Hong Kong, and the country with the highest number of visitors came from mainland China. According to data collected by the Hong Kong Tourism Board, as of October 2023, a total of 21.3 million tourists from the mainland visited the city this year. And the influx of visitors from the mainland is also evident in the dining scene.

Chef Olivier Elzer of Clarence, points out that “we have observed a significant decrease in our expatriate clientele, many of whom left Hong Kong during the pandemic. In contrast, there has been an increase in the number of Mainland Chinese customers.” He adds, “this change in the demographic makeup of our clientele has prompted us to pay closer attention to their preferences and tailor our offerings accordingly.”

Restaurants have seen an increase in Mainland Chinese and Gen Z diners I  Photograph: Courtesy Amber

Echoing this point, Tony Ferreira, head of Culinary Operations at Black Sheep Restaurants (proprietor of Magistracy Dining Room, New Punjab Club, Carbone, and others) mentions that with this new set of customers “our focus has been on building connections and friendships, plus enhancing our offerings, from menus to service to social media, to meet their hospitality needs.”

In addition to mainland Chinese diners, another emerging consumer group consists of  younger diners, specifically those belonging to Gen Z. These digital natives are a food-obsessed generation. Now that they're entering the workforce and have some cash to spend, they are devoting a sizable share of their money to food and beverages. “The expectations of a younger clientele are much more experiential,” shares chef Richard Ekkebus, director of Culinary Operations and Food & Beverage at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. “They do not necessarily want to sit for four hours at a table. So we have to continue creating unique experiences that are appealing and Instagram-worthy,” he adds.

Covid-19 has transformed consumer spending habits, and that includes shopping mindfully and remaining value-conscious when dining out, which is affecting restaurants, particularly those in the luxury dining sector. According to Rosewood Hong Kong’s director of Food and Beverage, Andrew Yang, “Hong Kong's F&B industry has adapted to cater to newer crowds by offering affordable prices and introducing storytelling menus with great presentations, and warm, genuine service.”

Bo Innovation's Arts of Asia Menu is one of the most affordable fine dining menus in Hong Kong I Photograph: Courtesy Bo Innovation

Chef Alvin Leung, aka the Demon Chef and chef-proprietor of Bo Innovation and Cafe Bau, points out that they have adjusted their business operations to cater to the consumer’s changing expectations. Bo Innovation’s Arts of Asia menu offers one of the most accessible options among Michelin-starred restaurants in the city, featuring a 10-course tasting menu at $900 per person for groups of four or more.

Chef Manav Tuli of recently opened Indian restaurant Leela has also observed that his guests have been price sensitive. ”Keeping this in mind, we have kept our prices reasonable and approachable,” he shares. By running lean yet highly efficient operations, chef Manav says they're able to keep the prices well within reach.

Another habit directly influenced by the pandemic is that customers initially focused on takeout before gradually returning to normal operations, leading to a preference for quicker, casual dining experiences. Elizabeth Chu, chairwoman of ZS Hospitality Group (proprietor of Testina, Whey, Hansik Goo, Plaa, and more) notes the emergence of fine-dining concepts and the introduction of many renowned names after border reopening and during Covid times. “However, I can feel that customers are starting to get tired of tasting menu-only dining options, and might be more open to à la carte and casual concepts that they can visit more frequently,” she adds. Similarly, chef Vicky Lau of Tate Dining Room and Mora, notices the shift towards à la carte menus or more flexible menu options, catering to the evolving preferences of diners who seek customisation and variety in their dining experiences.

Chefs such as Olivier Elzer have taken note of this emerging trend among diners and adapted their operations. “We've streamlined our services for efficiency, focusing on quicker dining experiences without compromising on quality”, he says. At Clarence, they have also adjusted their pricing to offer better value and cater to shorter, more practical mealtimes.

Spanish-Japanese restaurant Ando offers an affordable lunch menu I Photograph: Courtesy Ando

Likewise, chef Agustin Balbi of Michelin-starred Ando noticed that diners have become more sensitive and conservative in their spendings. As a solution, chef Balbi mentions that they have created a much more attractive menu with higher quality produce for both menus at a better price. Ando has successfully introduced a more affordable lunch menu, allowing guests to select from three, four, or five courses based on their schedule and budget.

Vegetarian and vegan diets have gained popularity among consumers, particularly with Gen Z diners, as more young people are becoming health conscious and concerned about what goes into their bodies. Elizabeth Chu also notes that the younger generation is more conscious about the source of ingredients and if restaurants can accommodate plant-based alternatives.

Saicho Sparkling Tea is one of the popular sparkling tea options offered at restaurants I Photograph: Courtesy Saicho

Young diners have made health-conscious decisions by not only adopting vegetarian and vegan lifestyles but also by drinking less than previous generations. According to a survey conducted by the Hong Kong Centre for Health Protection between 2020 to 2022, only 3.8 percent of young people consumed alcohol at least once on a weekly basis. But that doesn’t mean that they don’t want to enjoy beverages with their meals. At Black Sheep Restaurants, Tony Ferreira observes that fewer customers are drinking, but there is an increasing demand for non-alcoholic options, such as mocktails with interesting flavours. Restaurants have opted to use tea as a non-alcoholic beverage to pair with their dining offerings, with establishments like Tate Dining Room and Mora expanding their tea options, as well as Noi and Ando offering a zero-alcohol pairing with drinks such as kombucha and sparkling tea.

Currently, Hong Kong has 207 restaurants with Michelin stars, but only three restaurants in the city – Mora, Roganic, and Amber – have earned Green stars, which is the organisation’s award for restaurants that hold high ethical and environmental standards. Founder and chef at Mono, Ricardo Chaneton, says that Hong Kong and many Asian countries are lagging behind Europe and North America in terms of sustainable practices, but he is encouraged by the increasing awareness and active participation in sustainable initiatives among local restaurants.

Chef Manav Tuli of Leela believes that environmental impact remains a big concern for the F&B community as a whole, as well as for consumers. He emphasises the need to use more organic and GMO-free products and supports local and international farmers pushing the boundaries in producing these ingredients so restaurants can continue to share it with guests.

Cafe Bau sources over 90 percent of their ingredients from local suppliers I  Photograph: Courtesy Cafe Bau

“I think there will be a continuous search for high-quality local produce and bridging the gap between producers and chefs,” shares chef Agustin Balbi. “A continuous search for sustainability is also very important, even though it is something very challenging in Hong Kong, I think we should try as much as possible to make the system work, every grain of sand helps for a better future,” he adds.

At Cafe Bau, chef Kasey Chan emphasises that their restaurant has been proactive in sourcing over 90 percent of their ingredients from local suppliers. “This approach not only supports local farmers and suppliers, but also significantly reduces our carbon footprint,” he states.

Chef Richard Ekkebus believes that there will be an influx of restaurants operating sustainably in 2024. As a restaurant that is proud of their sustainability efforts, chef Richard says that even during and after the pandemic, Amber remained busy. “This means there is a clientele that wants to support a responsible business, we have shown a real business case for what we have been driving over the past 18 years,” he shares.

Customers are embracing creative dining concepts that celebrate local culture and traditions. At Cafe Bau, chef Kasey Chan ensures that they are incorporating more local ingredients into their dishes. “For instance, we have creatively integrated ingredients like clam sauce (Xian Jie) into our menu, allowing us to showcase traditional flavours while providing a novel and engaging dining experience,” he shares.

Similarly, at Ho Lee Fook, chef Archan Chan observed that the restaurant's Chinese BBQ section, particularly items like char siu, goose, and our Ho Lee Duck, has gained immense popularity among overseas guests. “Responding to this demand, we introduced Siu Yuk (roast pork belly) to our BBQ offerings”, she states.

“The elevation of Chinese cuisine has been a notable trend, with restaurants striving to offer refined and innovative Chinese dishes,” shares chef Vicky Lau. “This trend involves incorporating modern culinary techniques, premium ingredients, and creative presentations while maintaining the essence of Chinese flavours”, she adds.

Moving into 2024, Hong Kong’s chefs and restaurants have been dialling in their focus on reimagining existing cuisines and presenting it  in new and exciting ways. Elizabeth Chu has noticed an emerging attention towards regional Chinese cuisine. “Following border reopening with growing investments from mainland China and foot traffic from nearby regional cities such as Shenzhen, customers have developed a more in-depth and profound understanding of regional cuisines, which has contributed to the popularity and the likes of concepts like Xin Rong Ji and Yong Fu”, she states. She believes that Cantonese restaurants will be diversifying their offerings to be more inclusive of regional delicacies. 

At Leela, chef Manav Tuli chooses to spotlight dishes from ancient Indian cuisine for his new restaurant, highlighting cuisine specifically from the Mauryan Empire which dates back to 300 BC. Following the reception of his dishes, chef Manav plans to embark on further developments for Leela’s menu. “We are planning to start the Taste of India Series – these are specially curated lunches that showcase the history and evolution of dishes from Indian subcontinents in a detailed way”, he explains.

Mono's duck foie gras Taco I  Photograph: Courtesy Mono

“While French, Italian or Chinese cuisine are fairly well known across the globe, it’s only very recently that certain cuisines such as Latin American food have become more available outside of Latin America,” shares chef Ricardo Chaneton. “I hope that less well-known cuisines can come to the fore with more chefs experimenting with blending diverse culinary traditions and flavours from around the world,” he adds. 

Similarly, chef Olivier Elzier believes that cuisines that already exist in Hong Kong’s dining scene could benefit from a renewed focus, especially in showcasing their authentic and traditional aspects. “There's a rich tapestry of culinary experiences within cuisines such as Chinese, Japanese, French, and more, that go beyond the popular dishes. By exploring these underrepresented facets, we can offer diners a more comprehensive and enriching dining experience. It's about balancing the well-loved favourites with the exploration of less familiar, yet equally tantalising, culinary offerings”, he concludes.