There’s no flashy name and no flashy decor, yet this pint-sized Soho spot delivers exceptional seasonal cooking at lovably affordable prices, with back-up from an ever-evolving and great-value wine list. Expect well-constructed dishes with European overtones, from octopus with chorizo and potato to confit duck with runner beans and mustard. Around half the tables are kept back for walk-ins, but groups of up to six can now book for lunch and dinner.
SEPTEMBER 2019: London’s love affair with no-bookings restaurants shows no sign of fizzling out, judging by our latest list of recommendations. We’ve added 21 venues, ranging from The Counter at Sabor in Mayfair (brilliant rustic-style tapas) to Din Tai Fung (the Covent Garden outpost of a Taiwanese chain). Other highlights include Borough Market’s rollicking El Pastor and its dinky King’s Cross sibling Casa Pastor (Mexican tacos etc), hip Hackney izakaya joint Peg (Japanese-ish small plates) and Gloria (a fun-loving OOT trattoria in Shoreditch). Also in Shoreditch, we must mention Smokestak (brisket heaven) and Smoking Goat (Thai BBQ and booze).