The 50 best things to do in London

What is it? Dating back to the thirteenth century, London’s oldest food market is a cornucopia of gourmet goodies – your go-to for artisanal finds.

Why go? It used to highlight British produce but nowadays you’ll find global traders and street-food vendors: enjoy French confit-duck sandwiches, Ethiopian stews and scotch eggs (elevated, of course).

Don’t miss: Arrive early (get coffee from Monmouth), pick up from Neal’s Yard Dairy, Brindisa and Bread Ahead, and head for a riverside picnic.

What is it? A riverside icon on London’s South Bank dedicated to modern and contemporary art. It’s the younger, hipper sibling to Pimlico’s Tate Britain.

Why go? To be inspired and challenged – even by the architecture. Tate Modern is based in what was Bankside Power Station. Its 2016 Switch House extension added gallery space and incredible 360-degree views of the London skyline. Step inside to discover works by the likes of Warhol, Matisse and Bourgeois, all part of the free permanent collection.

Don’t miss: The Tate Boat (decorated with Damien Hirst dots) runs up and down the Thames between Tate Modern and Tate Britain every 30 minutes during gallery opening hours. Just tap in and out with an Oyster or contactless card as you would on the tube or bus.

What is it? A reconstruction of William Shakespeare’s circular theatre, which was destroyed by a fire, sat a few hundred yards from its original site.

Why go? It’s the closest you’ll ever get to experiencing the Bard’s plays as his Elizabethan audience did. To stand or not to stand, that is the question. In the era of Mr Shakespeare himself, many theatregoers would stay on their feet when watching a play. Known as ‘groundlings’, those who stood would get an ace and up-close view of the show. At the Globe, this tradition has endured and you can get a standing spot for as little as £5. Honestly, the action is so engrossing that by the time you realise your feet hurt, it’ll all be over.

Don’t miss: A midnight performance. You’ll have to book well in advance for one of these late-night shows but it’s worth it for the raucous atmosphere. Pop to the pub beforehand for a pint or two – and maybe a coffee to keep you awake into the early hours. 

What is it? The original branch of Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver’s gastronomic mini-empire. 

Why go? St John is quite possibly the most influential restaurant to have opened in London in the past 30 years. It’s credited with reacquainting the British with the full possibilities of native produce, especially anything gutsy and offal-ish. And did we mention it’s delicious? And so popular that when it recently celebrated its 30th anniversary with a menu of its best hits (complete with 1994 prices), a fortnight’s worth of bookings were made in less than a minute. 

Don’t miss This wonderfully simple dish of roasted vealbone marrow, parsley salad and grilled white sourdough has been a permanent fixture on the menu since the place opened. 

What is it? A riverside titan of arts and entertainment, the Southbank Centre is made up of multiple venues hosting some of London’s most sought-after events. 

Why go? To soak up some serious culture; its packed calendar of annual events includes Imagine Children’s Festival during the February half-term, Women of the World festival around International Women’s Day, Refugee Week actitivites and celebrity-curated music festival Meltdown in the summer, and a plethora of A-list screenings, talks and workshops during London’s Film and Literature festivals in the autumn. It’s still worth a visit even when there’s nothing on; head to the food market to munch on vegan cake, or pick up a rare first edition at the bookstalls. 

Don’t miss: While you’re there, head along the South Bank to the Globe and gawp at the hallowed Shakespearian playhouse.

What is it? The largest stadium in the UK, and the home of English football. 

Why go? Hosting the nation’s biggest sporting spectacles since 1923, Wembley has plenty of heritage to inspire any visitor, but its legendary status as a temple of sport was assured with England’s World Cup Final win over West Germany in 1966, and cemented more recently with the Lionesses Euro 2022 victory, also against Germany.

Don’t miss: The Wembley Tour, which revisits the stadium’s golden moments from the 1920s to the present. The 75-minute tour includes the England Changing Rooms and Players’ Tunnel, as well as the chance to sit in the England manager’s press conference and to lift a replica FA Cup. 

What is it? A massive club on the site of the old Ikea in Tottenham from the team behind Printworks and Manchester’s Depot Mayfield.

Why go? This cavernous, 608,000 sq ft party den is the joint largest capacity nightclub in the world and features three separate dancefloors, five bars – including a 25,000 sqft bar in the main 15,000 capacity room – 48-metre-long LED screens and an outdoor terrace and food court. Its hosted gigs from the likes of Bicep, Marcel Dettmann, Kelly Lee Owens, Loco Dice, Girls Don’t Sync, Sherelle, Skepta and The Sugababes, along with takeovers from BuggedOut! The Hydra and Radio 1 Dance.

Don’t miss: Drumsheds’ owner, Broadwick Live, is promising eclectic cultural programming in the future; look out for orchestras, ballet, and community events.

What is it? One of the UK’s most prominent performing arts venues, which sits proudly on the South Bank.

Why go? To witness world-beating performances featuring luminaries of the acting scene and rising stars set to be the next big things.

Don’t miss: The musical phenomenon that is 'Hadestown' or the Olivier Award-winning 'Dear England'. 

What is it? A good old-fashioned caff. Since 1900 this workers’ café has provided carbs and protein in eggy, meaty and pan-fried form to the good people of east London.

Why go? Traces of bygone eras, like art deco interior details and Formica tables have earned E Pellicci Grade II-listed status, but what diners love best is that the fry-ups, grills and Italian plates are still all dished up by the same family.

Don’t miss: As strange as it might sound, you’re going to want to chase down your fry-up with a helping of bread-and-butter pudding – it’s a customer favourite.

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What is it? A real-life medieval castle by the Thames and, if we want to be technical, it's actually speaking, the Queen's Royal Palace and fortress.

Why go? For all that bling (and the ravens, if we're honest). You can’t help but gawp at the staggeringly priceless collection of diamonds, tiaras and sceptres that make up the Crown Jewels. Arrive early to beat the crowds and catch a glimpse of these precious rocks that the Royal Family still uses on official occasions. This 900-year-old monument is one of the country’s finest historical attractions and has enough to see to fill a whole day.

Don’t miss: If you want the real lowdown on the Tower, join a tour led by one of the costumed Yeoman Warders, or Beefeaters, who live and work here (they even have their own secret on-site pub). They’re a fun bunch, filling their talks full of jokes and fun jibes, as well as nitty gritty details you won’t find in the guidebook. 

What is it? A cathedral to culture, the V&A is a world-class museum championing the very best of decorative art and design. There are some 150 grand galleries over seven floors. They contain countless pieces of furniture, ceramics, sculpture, paintings, posters, jewellery, metalwork, glass, textiles and dress, spanning several centuries. 

Why go? High-profile ticketed exhibitions often sell out, but the permanent exhibits are fascinating and free to visit. 

Don’t miss: The world’s first all-porcelain courtyard created by architect Amanda Levete with 11,000 handmade tiles. When it catches the sunlight, the glittering ceramics make London look like 1960s Rome. 

What is it? Unapologetically eccentric and always original, Liberty is a whimsical department store near Oxford Circus. It was founded in 1875, but the mock-Tudor Marlborough Street incarnation – constructed with the timbers of two ancient warships – was built in the 1920s.

Why go? Although Liberty trades on its history, it squeezes fashion-forward innovation into its wood-panelled rooms. Browse silks, Liberty-print cottons and one-off designer collaborations.

Don’t miss: The Liberty Christmas Shop. Open for a sizeable chunk of the year, it’s a magical, glitter-covered, gift-wrapped festive grotto, perfect for selecting weird and wonderful decorations for your tree. Brussels sprout bauble, anyone?

What is it? If you’re looking for a mind-blowingly strong and delicious cocktail in sumptuous surroundings, this hotel bar is the right place.

Why go? It’s Stanley Tucci’s go-to and was Ian Fleming’s when he was penning the Bond books. Cocktails are among the most expensive in the city, but bar snacks are fabulous. Stagger across the cobbles of St James’s on your way out (the drinks really are that strong).

Don’t miss: Made to a recipe by esteemed bartender Salvatore Calabrese, its world famous martini is theatrical crafted from a trolley that’s wheeled to your table. You simply must order it.

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What is it? Oh just 3,000 acres of beautiful green space, filled with stunning vistas, rare plants, Victorian glasshouses, a Chinese pagoda and a treetop walkway. You know, nothing too grandiose.

Why go? This world-leading botanic garden is captivating any time of year. There’s loads to see here, whether you like green stuff or not. Why not take a trip to the Treetop Walkway? At 18 metres high, this trek through the leaves offers fab views of the grounds. Or, stroll down to the Chinese Pagoda, which was built in 1762 and towers over the southern end of the Gardens. Or, visit the extraordinary Marianne North Gallery. The building is a beautifully tiled piece of Victorian architecture and the whole place is lined with over 800 of North’s colourful paintings of flowers, landscapes, animals and birds. 

Don’t miss: The restored Temperate House is a horticulturalist’s delight, home to encephalartos woodii, one of the rarest plants in the world, that outlived the dinosaurs.

What is it? A welcoming and brilliantly maintained urban farm, complete with cute animals, just off Brick Lane in east London.

Why go? You can get a little taste of the countryside in the East End at Spitalfields City Farm. Friendly residents up for a pat include Bayleaf the donkey and a lovable pair of hairy hogs. The farm shop sells homegrown produce like freshly laid eggs, and the range of veg grown is remarkable for the location. There’s always something going on, from the homely café and laidback weekend festivals to family volunteering programme Families Go Wild. A proper city gem with a lovely vibe.

Don’t miss: The annual goat race. A rival to the famous Boat Race on the Thames, which sees Oxford and Cambridge universities go head to head, Spitalfields City Farm’s goat race pits two goats against each other on the same afternoon. It’s a lot more exciting than its riperine equivalent and over a lot quicker.

What is it? A large, leafy greenhouse within the iconic performing arts and exhibition centre.

Why go? This labyrinthine arts complex is part of a vast concrete estate – an icon of brutalist London architecture – that also includes 2,000 covetable flats and lots of confusing walkways. Which makes the fact that it’s also home to the second-biggest conservatory in the city a very lush surprise. The indoor garden has 2,000 plant species. It’s like stepping into the happy ending of a dystopian thriller, when the characters finally find signs of life on an abandoned planet. 

Don’t miss:  Inside, the focus is on world-class arts, taking in every imaginable genre.

What is it? One of the county's most famous institutions, dedicated to human history, art and culture.

Why go? There’s so much to see at the British Museum –Parthenon sculptures, Lewis Chessmen, The Rosetta Stone. The world-famous Egyptian stone, the key to deciphering the hieroglyphs, is the most sought out item in the collection. If you think you’ve done it all, delve deeper by looking out for new acquisitions, or pop into one of the museum’s temporary exhibitions.

Don’t miss: The Ancient Egyptian collections at the British Museum really are something to be seen. There are seven galleries packed full of fascinating artifacts. You can spend hours solely staring at the various mummies preserved so exquisitely behind glass that they give you the feeling of stepping back in time, and the huge stone busts of figures like Ramesses and Amenhotep are breathtaking. 

What is it? The most quintessentially English thing you can ever eat at one of the most traditional and elegant hotels in London. 

Why go? Forget brunch, afternoon tea is really where it’s at. With flattering lighting, the scent of fresh roses and classical musicians playing away in the corner, the Foyer at Claridge’s is a class act. This elegant art deco space is where chic A-listers and other ‘people with taste’ come to take tea. Expect tasty patisserie, sensational just-baked scones and incredible finger sandwiches. 

Don’t miss: The drink at the heart of the ritual. Sip on a fine bone-china cup of Claridge’s Blend, a bespoke tea designed for this very occasion. 

What is it? A four-screen cinema with a varied programme of films and events as well as food and drink options, from weekend brunch to weekday tipples. 

Why go? To make an evening (or day) of it under one roof. After work, arrive for dinner before a showing, see the film then head to the brand new riverside bar for a debrief over some movie-themed cocktails. Alternatively enjoy a leisurely breakfast beside the Thames before a lunchtime film. There’s also a bookshop, the Mediatheque – where you can discover treasures from British film and TV history – and an exhibition space. 

Don’t miss: The BFI’s curated seasons really are the business if you love film. They encompass a whole range of subjects from month-long programmes celebrating ‘the uncanny’ to director and genre specials. They even get top-notch directors like Martin Scorsese to hand-pick their favourite flicks. 

What is it? A home to a rather impressive 80 million plant, animal, fossil, rock and mineral specimens. This South Kensington spot, which is also a world-class research institution, is full of wonders.

Why go? To come face-to-face with animatronic dinosaurs, a dodo, a giant sequoia tree, an earthquake simulator, glow-in-the-dark crystals and a great big blue whale skeleton which hangs from the ceiling of the Hintze Hall and goes after the name ‘Hope’. 

Don’t miss: The Museum’s gardens have just reopened after a huge transformation project. The new five-acre expanse of greenery now features a canyon crafted out of ancient stone, biodiverse habitats full of frogs and newts and a bronze cast of Dippy the Diplodocus – who used to hang in the Hintze Hall. 

What is it? Bathing ponds in the middle of the wild green space of Hampstead Heath, where you can splash about any time of year. In fact, it’s the only place in the UK to offer life-guarded open-water public swimming all year round.

Why go? With men’s, women’s and mixed ponds, there’s nowhere better – or more picturesque (the ponds are a short walk from Parliament Hill, with views over the city skyline) – to cool off on scorching London days. The mixed pond is members-only and not lifeguarded in winter. Competent swimmers aged eight-plus are allowed. Just jump right in: there’s no shallow end!

Don’t miss: Looking for a hot shower afterwards? You’ll only find them at the Ladies’ Pond. Sorry, chaps. 

What is it? A magnificently gothic, overgrown, 53,000-grave cemetery (housing 170,000 dead) in north London.

Why go? A stroll through a graveyard may seem like a  macabre way to spend an afternoon, but the chaotically overgrown Highgate Cemetery really is something special. It was one of London’s seven great Victorian cemeteries but fell into disrepair. Today, you can go and witness it in all its crumbling glory. The West Cemetery requires booking in advance for a guided tour. Entrance to the East Cemetery is £6 and must be bought in advance.

Don’t miss: The cemetery’s famous residents. Find the final resting places of, among others, ‘Hitchhiker’s Guide’ author Douglas Adams and poet Christina Rossetti. You can also visit Karl Marx. You can’t miss his spot – it’s topped with a massive sculpture of his head.

What is it? A totally beautiful, independent bookshop, founded by James Daunt in 1990. 

Why go? Daunt Marylebone, the small chain’s flagship store, might be London’s most beautiful bookshop. Occupying an Edwardian building on Marylebone High Street, it boasts an incredible galleried main room and stained-glass windows that feel like they’re from a long-lost world. All the books are arranged by country – regardless of content – which makes for a fun and unique browsing experience. Take home your books in a branded tote bag for the true Daunt experience. 

Don’t miss: The other amazing bookshops in London, like King’s Cross bookshop barge Word on the Water, tech-free Libreria in Shoreditch, Persephone Books on Lamb’s Conduit Street, which sells pretty reprints from female writers, and the stellar London Review Bookshop in Bloomsbury.

What is it? The legendary Prince Charles Cinema in Leicester Square is central London’s coolest movie house.

Why go? It’s a breath of fresh air in tourist-trap central. The two-screen independent shows an eclectic mix of new releases, cult and arthouse titles. It’s comfy, cheap and very cheerful, and the programming is as good as it gets.

Don’t miss: Expect double bills, seasonal classics, singalongs and all manner of unusual screenings – epic 70mm presentations of ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’ take place in one screen while people acapella-along to ‘Pitch Perfect’ in the other. 

What is it? An iconic, Grade II-listed Soho watering hole, which famously only serves beer in half-pints. This is Soho history. Come and drink it in. 

Why go? If you like to drink in places where the history’s as important as the booze on offer, the French House needs to be on your list. Charles de Gaulle used the pub as a workplace during World War II; Dylan Thomas and Francis Bacon both drank here; Fergus Henderson ran the upstairs dining room right before heading off to start St John...the list goes on. 

Don’t miss: You’ll likely find yourself joining the regulars on the pavement outside if you visit during busy hours, do make time to visit the upstairs restaurant. Headed up by Neil Borthwick, formerly of the Merchants Tavern, it offers up  seasonal, gutsy and stripped back French and British fare.

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What is it? The Proms are an eight-week summer season of orchestral concerts held inside iconic, circular concert venue the Royal Albert Hall.

Why go? From mid-July to mid-September, The Proms’ annual festival of classical music takes over the Royal Albert Hall and Hyde Park. Founded in 1895, the Proms are a quintessential London tradition. As a venue, the RAH is unbeatable too – it’s a total stunner both inside and out. 

Don’t miss: Getting your hands on tickets. For each concert there are about 1,400 cheap standing tickets, but if you want to wave your Union Jack flags at the famously rousing Last Night, apply by ballot online from mid-spring. Alternatively, for last-minute tickets on the day, join the (fun) queues on the Queen’s Steps.

What is it? The Grade I-listed St Paul’s Cathedral is one of the most famous buildings in Britain and an iconic feature of the London skyline. 

Why go? Sir Christopher Wren’s baroque beast is a marvel to look at, with an enormous dome and gorgeous interiors, but it actually still operates as a working church. All the services are free and open to all people of all faiths, including the incredibly popular Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. But to really nose around, climb the dome and head down into the crypt you’ll need a sightseeing ticket. Adult tickets are £25 on the door and include a multimedia guide or guided tour and access to an exhibition about the cathedral’s fascinating history.  

Don’t miss: The Whispering Gallery. That’s the indoor balcony at the base of the dome, where the acoustics of the cathedral’s architecture create a bizarre aural phenomenon. Stand on the exact opposite side of the dome as a friend, whisper something (‘I’m watching you’ is good) and they’ll hear you loud and clear, despite being more than 100 feet away. Spooky.

What is it? The world’s last surviving tea clipper, Cutty Sark was once the fastest ship of her age. That was over a century ago now, but she is still a spectacular sight, perched on her glass pedestal at the Thames’s edge in Greenwich.

Why go? The ship was nearly destroyed by fire in 2007, but reopened to the public in 2012 looking more handsome than ever. The £30 million restoration has seen her elevated three metres above the dry dock, allowing visitors to get closer than ever to its 65-metre-long gilded hull. Discover the ship’s history and explore the many cargoes that filled the Cutty Sark’s hold, from tea and whisky to wool and buffalo horns.

Don’t miss: The nearby National Maritime Museum. Continue your nautical education in Greenwich with a trip to NMM. The collection includes great works of art, incredible treasures and the actual blood-stained uniform that Lord Nelson was wearing when he was fatally wounded on board HMS Victory.

What is it? A grand Tudor pile that Henry VIII ‘acquired’ from Cardinal Wolsey. It was later home to royal Stuarts and Georgians too, who all left their mark on the palace.

Why go? The remarkable thing about Hampton Court Palace is that you can stand in the very rooms where history was made. Wander down the corridor where Catherine Howard was dragged screaming, see how George I’s chocolatier prepared the king’s favourite tipple and take a gander at King Charles II’s royal bog. There are also ace gardens and the UK’s oldest surviving hedge maze. 

Don’t miss: The wintertime Ghost Tours. These after-hours adventures, with tales of paranormal activity and regal apparitions, are frighteningly good.

What is it? An eighteenth-century neoclassical palace between the Strand and the river. It’s an art gallery, event space and music venue.

Why go? There’s loads to see and do all year round. In lieu of summertime gigs and outdoor cinema, find outdoor art installations.

Don’t miss: The many cultural events and activities the venue plays host to, alongside its usual exhibitions. At any given time, you'll find dance workshops, parties and celebratory mini-festivals taking over the space.  

What is it? Europe’s biggest street party, the annual Carnival takes over the streets of Notting Hill every summer.

Why go? This yearly celebration of London’s Caribbean communities, their culture and traditions, has been taking place since 1966. Over the Sunday (family day) and Monday of the late August Bank Holiday there’s a parade and fantastic live music, including reggae, dub and salsa, as well as 37 static soundsystems, soca floats, steel bands and a whole lot of delicious Caribbean food. 

Don’t miss: The warm-ups and after-parties. Soundsystems on the street and in the squares are a big draw, but that’s where you’ll hear some of best DJ sessions. 

What is it? Wimbledon is a leafy south-west London suburb that plays host to the world’s greatest lawn tennis championship every summer.

Why go? There’s more to Wimbledon than the oldest tennis championship in the world – it’s home to a windmill and the fictional Wombles for starters – but summer is the best time to head to SW19. During July every year, the world’s best tennis players arrive to battle it out, while the world’s biggest tennis fans arrive to sip Pimm’s, guzzle strawberries and cream, and vicariously bask in sporting greatness. Bag seats on Centre Court, lounge around on Murray Mound or catch the action for free on a big screen just outside the grounds on Aorangi Terrace.

Don’t miss: Tickets. They’re hard to get your hands on. The top spots must be applied for by ballot (UK applications start the August before) but there are also tickets available each day during the tournament for those prepared to queue.

What is it? The lengthy thoroughfare of Green Lanes is home to one of London’s biggest Turkish communities. 

Why go? For the best Turkish food this side of Istanbul. Think amazing pastries, verdant vegetable shops, life-changing kebabs and thick coffee that will have your eyes on stalks. Green Lanes runs for six miles from Newington Green to Palmers Green, but you want to head to the stretch nearest Harringay Green Lanes station to soak up the atmosphere and feast on meze at Gökyüzü.

Don’t miss: Dessert. Pop into Antepliler’s sweet side for boxes full of honeyed, sticky baklava. 

What is it? Alexandra Palace, aka Ally Pally, was built in the 1870s as an entertainment and education venue for the people of London and it’s still doing that job today by, among other things, hosting an incredible firework display to mark Bonfire Night every November.

Why go? Well, what can’t you do at Ally Pally? It’s long served as a music venue, attracting big name bands. It’s home to a forest adventure ground, a skate park, a farmers’ market, an ice rink, a garden centre, a boating lake and a golf course. The palace’s ‘hidden’ theatre is also set to reopen, having been closed to the public for the last 80 years. Look out for seasonal food festivals too, or crafting events and vintage expos if that’s more your bag. Alternatively, pack a picnic and simply soak up those sensational views of the city skyline in Alexandra Park. 

Don’t miss: That enormous mast. Alexandra Palace is known globally as the birthplace of television. In 1935 the BBC leased the eastern part of the Palace, from which the first public television transmissions were made. Cool, huh?

What is it? A Finsbury Park pleasure palace where you can bowl, dance, slurp slushies, play all manner of arcade games and sing your heart out in a karaoke booth until the wee hours.

Why go? This old den of entertainment has been around since 1913, surviving two world wars and even playing host to The Beatles in 1963. It almost got torn down by Harringay council to make way for flats in 2014, but the adoring locals petitioned hard until the council gave in. And so they should! It’s a proper north London gem; in fact, we reckon you probably can’t call yourself a true Londoner until you’ve bowled a gutterball on its hallowed lanes.

Don’t miss: The fact that you can order hot dogs and burgers right to your lane or karaoke booth. Heaven.

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What is it? A major opera house and performing arts venue  in the heart of London. It’s a Covent Garden institution, and one of the best opera houses in the world. 

Why go? For opera, of course, or breathtaking ballet from The Royal Ballet, who also call this iconic building home. The smaller spaces offer a line-up of experimental and independent dance and music works. You can book on to a backstage tour, which takes you around the auditorium and behind the scenes, often with a chance to see the Royal Ballet in class. The Velvet, Gilt and Glamour Tour offers a look at the building’s architecture as you hear stories of the opera greats who have performed there.

Don’t miss: The best seats in the house. If you’ve got the dosh, the seats on the third floor balcony are said to have the finest sound quality.

What is it? Strap in because this is the capital's biggest, grandest royal park.

Why go? With its ancient woodland, think open space and rural wilds in the heart of the city. This former royal hunting ground has changed little over the centuries, but modern-day visitors are more likely to be wielding a kite than a bow and arrow. Look out for wild red and fallow deer but be sure to keep your distance (especially during autumn’s rutting season).

Don’t miss: Make a beeline for the Isabella Plantation, an ornamental woodland garden full of clearings, ponds and streams and planted with ferns, exotic trees and shrubs. It’s particularly striking during April and May when the azaleas and rhododendrons put on their annual show. Rent a bike to really get to see the whole park. 

What’s better than having a delicious sauna to sweat out all those city toxins? Having that delicious sauna with awesome views across that very city, of course. It’s a badly kept Hackney secret that perched on top of Netil House there are a series of private sauna cabins, showers and cold water plunge barrels which you can book for 30, 60 or 90 minutes. Prices start at £11 per person and it’s a great innovative date idea or way to catch up with a sauna-loving pal. And once you’re all sweated-out, head across the roof to Netil360 for pizza, drinks and a chill out.

While Notting Hill has become one of London’s most affluent and desirable areas, Portobello Road Market, which runs between Notting Hill Gate and Ladbroke Grove, retains the area’s former cool. There’s the architecture – colourful terraced houses and shops all tightly squeezed together – and the market, which is actually several markets melded together. Portobello Road Market is best known for its antiques, with hundreds of dealers selling jewellery, books and collectables dating from the 1600s to the 1960s.

There are numerous reasons for foodies to visit Portobello Road. Like many London markets it began life as a place to buy fruit and veg, something you can still do six days a week (the whole market is closed on Sundays). There are numerous eateries dotted around, like local institution Lowry & Baker, while street-food vendors pitch up on Fridays and Saturdays. Nearby Golborne Road has North African and Caribbean street food available during the week.

Under the Westway and along the walkway to Ladbroke Grove, second-hand clothes sit next to the wares of up-and-coming fashion designers. Fridays are a little less hectic here, and you’ll be able to explore fashion-focused Portobello Green Market, which comprises more than 800 stalls. But Portobello Road is a top tourist destination, so it’s always going to be busy. However, it’s full of character and charm, so embrace its craziness and soak up the vibe.

Top tip: In the summer, grab an iced latte from Coffee Plant, which serves coffee supplied by its own roastery, then walk over to The Last Place On Earth, a vintage store full of carefully curated curios. Alim Kheraj

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The added-value attractions at this skinny little Church Street boozer are numerous: sporadic themed music nights (including the Bowie Bar on the second Thursday of the month, with films and food – Diamond Hot Dogs, anyone? – to go with the tunes), big-screen football, a surprisingly large beer garden.

But the Shillelagh is at its best when it keeps things simple, as an honest, uncomplicated Irish pub (as opposed to Irish-themed pub; the difference is crucial) that draws a devoted circle of boozed-up Stoke Newingtonians most nights of the week.

It’s the kind of pub where the wine list runs to ‘red or white’, and where the staff are so matey and hospitable that they’ll offer to bring your Guinness over to your table rather than have you hang around at the bar and wait for it to reach perfection. No wonder everybody here always seems to be in such a good mood.

NOTE: Due to a crush at Brixton Academy on December 15 2022, the venue will be closed until at least April 16 2023. Find out more here. 

Built in the 1920s as a cinema at a cost of £250,000, Brixton Academy is London's most credible major rock venue. Although it's echoey when half-full, the 5,000-capacity space is popular because the raked standing area gives good sightlines. Pop acts such as Goldfrapp occasionally feature, but programming favours metal, indie and alt-rock. As one of the capital's largest non-stadium venues, Brixton Academy played its part in rock history – it hosted the Sex Pistols reunion gigs in September 2007, Leftfield broke the venue's decibel record in 1996 bringing showers of dust and plaster down around them, and The Smiths played their last ever gig here in December 1986.

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Bar Termini does two things: coffee and cocktails. Coffee is overseen by Marco Arrigo, head of quality for Illy, who has probably trained more baristas – and trained them rigorously – than anyone else in the UK. Cocktails are supervised by Tony Conigliaro, the alco-alchemist behind 69 Colebrooke Row and Zetter Town House, among others. Teams don’t get much dreamier than this.

So, have they found a supersized venue to match the giant reputation? Ha ha ha. There’s room for 25, and seated service only, though you may stand if you order a single ‘espresso al bar’ for Italian-style drinking-and-running.

The coffee list has just four brews, all of them classics but with a twist. The alcohol list has three negronis, four ‘aperitivi’, three wines, one bottled beer. There is also a small food offering: baked goods from L’Anima in Shoreditch by day, charcuterie and cheese in the evening.

I went for coffee at lunchtime. The ‘espresso al tavola’ (they’ll explain what it means) was unusual but flawless. On my second visit later the same day, I had a marsala martini: Beefeater gin, sweet marsala, dry vermouth, almond bitters served straight-up. A model of simplicity and balance, this is one of the best cocktails in London.

The tiny Bar Termini is likely to become a hot ticket; booking is advised but walk-ins are welcomed. The dream team has dreamt up a vision of a bar. 

Peckham is hardly short on rooftop bars. It basically invented the modern model with Frank’s. But most of the neighbourhood’s sky-high watering holes lose their edge in winter when exposed to the elements. For views in any season, head to Forza Wine, a bar with the best of both worlds: an outdoor, bench-filled terrace and an indoor area with tall tables and glass doors revealing that skyline. We visited the fifth floor (above Rye Lane’s latest development, co-working space Market Peckham) on a dreary Saturday and were still captivated by The Shard and co-stars behind a grey veil.

Indoors, it’s compact. Like, seriously so. One flustered American vented to staff, ‘How do I get to my table?’ after another guest shuffled his chair to enjoy the views, turning the room into a one-way system. Staff managed it with precision, chicaning between tables.

The bar is a spin-off from Peckham’s much-loved Italian restaurant Forza Win (see what they did there?), and the drinks and snacks fly il Tricolore. A Garibaldi (Campari, orange, sugar syrup) suited lunchtime imbibing, while my friend delighted in a tangy Amaretto Sour (both £8), before we both moved onto a cracking glass of Verdicchio. True to its name, this bar takes the grape stuff seriously. And snacks are substantial enough to build a meal from – including meatballs made extra succulent by a red wine jus.

Forza Wine has just scrapped its online booking system, so anticipate queues similar to those at Frank’s as soon as spring comes round.

Missing The Glory, the infamous London pub that was a key part of the capital’s queer scene? The Divine is the new venue run by that much-missed space’s team and owned by iconic drag queens Jonny Woo and John Sizzle. Located just a short sashay down the road on the site of long-lost Dalston bar Birthdays (gosh, remember that place?) the venue is similarly split across two floors; a main bar upstairs where you can enjoy a quiet(ish) drink, and a performance venue in the basement. Head down to check out the ecclectic programme of outré cabaret shows, drag competitions and fringe theatre, before dancing until the small hours as the place transforms into a sequin-studded, drag-fuelled, pop-tastic disco.

RECOMMENDED: ‘Dark, sexy, shambolic’: an oral history of The Glory

Its cool blue neon lights, front-of-house café and occasional late-night shows may blend it into the Soho landscape, but since taking up residence on Dean Street in 2000 Soho Theatre has made quite a name for itself.

Across three studio spaces, it puts on an eclectic line-up of work from some of the biggest names in comedy, spoken word, and cabaret, and hosts at least six different shows a night. If ever there were a place in London to get a year-round taste of the Edinburgh Fringe it's here, with its eclectic programming, late shows and ever-buzzing bar. Just don't expect to find deep-fried haggis on the menu - teas, coffees, and wine are the order of the day at Soho Theatre's chic cafe/bar, which is reliably packed out after 6pm.

It has to be said that Soho excels in almost every area apart from the production of good in-house theatre shows, something it's consistently struggled with (though it has many fine co-productions). But this barely impacts on anybody's good time, and it's hard to hold it against the most fun theatre in central London.

It might look like a classic London pub from the outside, all Britain in Bloom-worthy hanging baskets and an extremely pub-like name picked out in gold lettering, but the Camberwell Arms is not a place to watch the footie or sink eight pints and waddle home semi-conscious (maybe try the Hermits Cave across the road for such tomfoolery).

Locals have known this for the past decade, ever since the grand Victorian boozer was given a serious sprucing up in 2014 under the auspices of chef director Mike Davies. Mike had form; starting out at one of south London’s original gastropubs, the Anchor & Hope in Waterloo, before setting up another south London institution, the much-loved hipster HQ that is Frank’s rooftop bar in Peckham. 

‘Sublime’ doesn’t even begin to do it justice. It is nothing less than art

Since then, the Camberwell Arms has remained the very picture of modesty. Settle into the spacious back room, an airy but still-intimate space, and the lack of fanfare (stripped wooden floorboards and the occasional stylish print is about as close to grandiose design as it gets here) only goes to prove how confident they are in the quality of the food. Who needs jazzed-up interiors when the cooking is this compelling? 

The menu is short but not too short, seasonal without being smug, and features a wry nod to the room’s pub past; a starter of beer onions on toast with aged gruyère. It’s a frankly indecent snack, snaked with sloppy boozed-up ribbons of onions, the particularly funky cheese oozing into the gaps and honking out a not unpleasant foot-like odour. It’s out-raunched only by a spectacular scotch bonnet and pork fat toast, where gooey, rendered richness was trampled into submission by sweet, sharp peppers draped like pink velvet curtains over the yielding slab of focaccia-ish bread. ‘Sublime’ doesn’t even begin to do it justice. It is nothing less than art. 

The rest of the menu was seasonal cooking at its finest. This is the kind of place you should drag a grumpy Yank who still thinks British food is all stodgy pies and lumpy mash. You’ll glow proudly as they dig into hunky broad bean, pea and dill fritters stacked up like Jenga pieces on a creamy, tangy splodge of whipped feta, before launching into a salad of mega chunks of cucumber and pickled red onions doused in an angelic, surprisingly sweet dressing. Simple, easy, divine.  

A pretty main of barbecued mackerel was crispy in all the right places and oily in all the other ones, sat pretty on a bed of sweet and sour peppers, and washed down with a glass of chilled red. On this visit, it was a hot, superlatively sticky day and as such sharing platters of lamb and Hereford forerib of beef with peppercorn sauce seemed a bit much, but previous meals here attest to their excellence. As soon as it cools down a touch, we’re diving face first back into some impeccably cooked, sensationally seasoned flesh. 

It’s worth noting that the drinks here are as immaculate as the food; white port and tonic quenches the thirst on one of the hottest days of the year, olives on a floating toothpick offering a martini-lite simulacrum, while their real deal martini came as a gibson and was imbued with horseradish, making the punchiest cocktail in the world even punchier.

Great food, flawless drinks, committed regulars and one of the best meals you’re likely to get in south London. The Camberwell Arms is an institution for good reason; treasure it.

The vibe The gastropub to end all gastropubs. 

The food Seasonal British produce with plenty of veg-forward dishes as well as sharing platters of lamb and ribs. 

The drink A quite entrancing cocktail menu and a vast selection of wine.

Time Out tip Ignore the starter of pork fat on toast at your peril.

In a modern world with the metric system, beer seems to be stuck in the dark ages. As well as being served as a pint (20 fluid ounces, if you’re asking), it’s also possible to drink a yard – although that’s only really acceptable if you’re on a stag do or channelling Mark Corrigan from ‘Peep Show’. You can add to that list the Bermondsey Beer Mile (where you’ll find many of those pints and stag dos). The eclectic run of railway-arch-occupying breweries and tap rooms continues to grow, and Manchester’s Cloudwater is its latest – a brewery that’s fully enlightened.

It’s at the Bermondsey station end of the strip, nestled between Moor Beer Co and Brew by Numbers. There’s no sign above the door, but peer through windows past jazzy tables and pastel-pink stools to see an illuminated logo at the back of the unit beckoning you to the bar. There you’ll find 20 different Cloudwater and collaborative brews on tap, from sessionable pales to wine-strength porters, plus a regularly updated list of cans and bottles in its cold store.

I settled on the barman’s selection, a Cloudwater DIPA that went down far too easily for something so strong (8.5%), while my partner picked an IPA that was fruity-yet-subtle in flavour. Both came in at £4, as do all the draught beers, which sounds cheap until you notice the measures (a third-pint and a half-pint, respecitvely). A schooner or smaller is great for trying a lot in one session, but that could effectively cost £12 for a pint – even if they are some of the nicer craft beers around, it may leave you scratching your head. Although, if I’d had a full 20 fluid ounces of mine, I can assure you the water wouldn’t have been the only thing that was cloudy.

The added-value attractions at this skinny little Church Street boozer are numerous: sporadic themed music nights (including the Bowie Bar on the second Thursday of the month, with films and food – Diamond Hot Dogs, anyone? – to go with the tunes), big-screen football, a surprisingly large beer garden.

But the Shillelagh is at its best when it keeps things simple, as an honest, uncomplicated Irish pub (as opposed to Irish-themed pub; the difference is crucial) that draws a devoted circle of boozed-up Stoke Newingtonians most nights of the week.

It’s the kind of pub where the wine list runs to ‘red or white’, and where the staff are so matey and hospitable that they’ll offer to bring your Guinness over to your table rather than have you hang around at the bar and wait for it to reach perfection. No wonder everybody here always seems to be in such a good mood.